Thursday, October 21, 2010 Partly sunny, 65 degrees
U.S. Olympic Complex: There are three Olympic training centers in the U.S., one in Lake Placid, NY, another in Chula Vista, CA, and the one in Colorado Springs, CO. We arrived so early at the U.S. Olympic Complex that we were the only ones watching the introductory movie and the only ones on our tour. Flags from all of the participating countries are flown along the sidewalks within the complex, and an Olympic torch is on the roof of the Visitor Center. Although this is the training center for the summer games, life-sized metal sculptures of all Olympic sports are displayed on the lawns outside of the buildings. One of the most impressive is the long, curved luge run.
Our tour took us into several of the training centers. First we went into the men's gymnastics building where mats, rings, and pummel horses were ready for use; volleyball is located on the other side of that gym. Across the lawn the shooting range was set up for different distances and different types of guns. Another gym houses work-out areas for weight lifting, strength conditioning, wrestling, and women's gymnastics. Nearby the aquatic center provides lanes for both lap swimming and synchronized swimming with timers and video footage to aid the swimmers in perfecting their strokes. Lastly we were shown the Athlete Center which serves as both a dorm and dining room for resident athletes, their home away from home.
Back in the Visitor Center, a Hall of Fame honors athletes who have accomplished unusual fetes. For example at its entrance is a "track" twenty-nine feet, two and one half inches long which is the Olympic record for the long jump set by Bob Beamon in the 1968 Olympic Games. It is such a long distance that it doesn't seem humanly possible. Our tour gave us a greater appreciation for the dedication and accomplishments of our Olympic athletes.
World Figure Skating Museum: As you would assume, this museum houses memorabilia throughout the history of figure skating from the 1880's to the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver. Costumes, skates, boots, posters, pins, programs, photos, trophies, and medals are on display. One video shows highlights of special skating moments, and in another Scott Hamilton demonstrates how the jumps and spins differ from one another. Biographical information reveals that most women skaters are between five feet and feet feet two inches tall, and most most men are five foot nine. The skating costumes of Michelle Kwan, Tara Lipinski, and Sarah Hughes illustrate just how tiny they are. We also read that those costumes cost between five and fifty thousand dollars! After watching figure skating over the years, it was interesting to read and learn about those men and women who have competed in the Olympics over the years.
Air Force Academy: The Visitor Center gives the history of the Air Force and the Academy. A film and displays also explain what qualities are required of incoming candidates and what roles they assume each year they are enrolled. The different academic majors and expectations are detailed. In addition to their studies, cadets must parachute jump, fly a glider, participate in either intercollegiate or intramural sports, and in the summer undergo military training. They obviously have very little spare time.
From the Visitor Center we walked to the much photographed Air Force Academy Chapel. Constructed of seventeen rows of spires, the frame is of tubular steel and one hundred tetrahedrons. These are spaced a foot apart, creating gaps that are filled with one inch colored glass. To encourage spiritual development of the cadets four chapels are available for all faiths. The Protestant Chapel fills the main floor where the affect of colored glass is most evident, and a mammoth pipe organ occupies the balcony. The smaller Catholic, Jewish, and Buddhist Chapels are located in the lower level.
Next we took a driving tour of the grounds, passing various air craft and overlooking the football field. Meanwhile overhead we watched a glider doing flips, spins, and spirals, moves we've never seen a glider do before.
We really like the Colorado Springs area. It is vibrant, clean, and is nestled at the foot of Pike's Peak. The climate is pleasant most of the year, and the sky is cloudless. Snow that falls quickly melts, and we've grown to like the drier air throughout the high desert. We could easily take an extend vacation in Colorado.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Manitou, CO, CO 24E to I 25N to Cheyenne, WY
Friday, October 22, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Day 53: Pike's Peak, Manitou Cliff Dwellings, Garden of the Gods
Wednesday, October 20, 2010 Sunny; 32 degrees on Pike's Peak;
65 degrees in Manitou, CO
Remember all of my blathering about driving mountain roads? So what did we do today? We drove to the summit of Pike's Peak. Actually, although it twisted and turned, the road was quite wide and well-maintained. We climbed from the montane climate zone to the alpine zone. The trees disappeared at about 11,000 feet, and we soon were driving through the tundra.
At 14,115 feet Pike's Peak is the thirty-first highest of the 54 "fourteeners" in Colorado, and with clear skies, it was the perfect day to be on the mountain. We could see to the horizon in every direction. Five states are supposed to be within view, but since there were no signs, we were left guessing which was where. We could see all of Colorado Springs and many other towns as well. A beautiful alpine lake laid off to the west, and beyond it the snow-capped Rocky Mountains stretched from north to south. To make the visit memorable for everyone at the summit, an Air Force C-130 climbed out of the valley and soared just overhead. From where we were standing, on its descent it looked as if it were flying into the Visitor Center.
At the foot of Pike's Peak we stopped at the Manitou Cliff Dwellings. Preserved under a protective sandstone ledge are authentic Anasazi cliff dwellings. As at Mesa Verde, these were occupied between 1200 and 1300. The theory is that a prolonged drought hit the area and forced the people to move from the Four Corners region to more productive farm lands in the south. Unlike Mesa Verde, however, here we took a self-guided tour through the buildings. Numbered signs explained their use and construction as well as telling about their social structure and the crops they grew. Nearby were reproductions of a stone mesa-top building and an Anasazi baking oven. A three-story Pueblo-style building houses the Anasazi Museum and Gift Shop. The museum was well done, informative without boring us with extraneous details.
Lastly, we drove through Garden of the Gods, filled with many red sandstone formations. While we recognize their unique beauty, we didn't think they began to compare to the formations we saw at Grand Staircase-Escalante just one week ago.
So to summarize today, we did more of the same: more mountains, more cliff dwellings, and more red rocks. From here on we expect our next stops to be "new" or to at least expand on what we've already seen.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Pueblo, Co, I 25N to exit 141; CO 24W to Pike's Peak; then CO 24E to Manitou, CO
65 degrees in Manitou, CO
Remember all of my blathering about driving mountain roads? So what did we do today? We drove to the summit of Pike's Peak. Actually, although it twisted and turned, the road was quite wide and well-maintained. We climbed from the montane climate zone to the alpine zone. The trees disappeared at about 11,000 feet, and we soon were driving through the tundra.
At 14,115 feet Pike's Peak is the thirty-first highest of the 54 "fourteeners" in Colorado, and with clear skies, it was the perfect day to be on the mountain. We could see to the horizon in every direction. Five states are supposed to be within view, but since there were no signs, we were left guessing which was where. We could see all of Colorado Springs and many other towns as well. A beautiful alpine lake laid off to the west, and beyond it the snow-capped Rocky Mountains stretched from north to south. To make the visit memorable for everyone at the summit, an Air Force C-130 climbed out of the valley and soared just overhead. From where we were standing, on its descent it looked as if it were flying into the Visitor Center.
At the foot of Pike's Peak we stopped at the Manitou Cliff Dwellings. Preserved under a protective sandstone ledge are authentic Anasazi cliff dwellings. As at Mesa Verde, these were occupied between 1200 and 1300. The theory is that a prolonged drought hit the area and forced the people to move from the Four Corners region to more productive farm lands in the south. Unlike Mesa Verde, however, here we took a self-guided tour through the buildings. Numbered signs explained their use and construction as well as telling about their social structure and the crops they grew. Nearby were reproductions of a stone mesa-top building and an Anasazi baking oven. A three-story Pueblo-style building houses the Anasazi Museum and Gift Shop. The museum was well done, informative without boring us with extraneous details.
Lastly, we drove through Garden of the Gods, filled with many red sandstone formations. While we recognize their unique beauty, we didn't think they began to compare to the formations we saw at Grand Staircase-Escalante just one week ago.
So to summarize today, we did more of the same: more mountains, more cliff dwellings, and more red rocks. From here on we expect our next stops to be "new" or to at least expand on what we've already seen.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Pueblo, Co, I 25N to exit 141; CO 24W to Pike's Peak; then CO 24E to Manitou, CO
Day 52: Great Sand Dunes National Park
Tuesday, October 19, 2010 Sunny, frost on the windshield (!!!!) early, then 58 degrees
Last night I bought the new hiking boots I talked about. After I wore them in the motel room all evening and again this morning, I knew that they rubbed on my insteps. So.... back to the store. Forty-five minutes later with the seams flattened with a hammer and new insoles, the problem was solved. Thankfully, since I was not told and did not know that they were not returnable. This stop made us late arriving at Great Sand Dunes NP which was not part of our original itinerary. But with the detour to Mesa Verde yesterday, we were driving by the road leading to the park so why not?
Across the high desert at the foot of the Sangre De Christo Mountains are the 750 foot high Great Sand Dunes. These towering dunes, the tallest on the continent, seem out of place, located in the Rocky Mountains far from any sea. "The dunes were created over thousands of years by southwesterly winds blowing across the San Luis Valley. They were formed when streams of water from melting glaciers carried rocks, gravel, and silt down from the mountains. Accumulating on the valley floor, the sand was picked up by the wind and carried toward the mountains. Even today the winds are changing the face of the dunes. So-called "reversing winds" from the mountains pile the dunes back upon themselves, building them higher and higher."
After watching the film in the Visitor Center we drove out to the Dunes Parking Lot, the trailhead for the hike to the top of the dunes. We walked out on the valley floor, looked up at the ant-sized people climbing the dunes, ran the sand through our fingers, and said to each other, "Yep, that's a mighty big sand dune." Since we usually spend half of the year on the beach in North Carolina, we long ago lost our love of trudging through deep, loose sand. In fact we try to walk the beach only at low tide to avoid it. So we opted for the Montville Nature Trail which led to part of the Wellington Ditch Trail where we could see much of the thirty-six square miles of dunes without walking through a single grain of sand. It really is a magnificent sight to see sun playing on the peaks and the troughs of the dunes.
Miscellanea: Another day, another mountain pass. Today it was Wolf Creek Pass at 10,700 feet. We have been pleased that we have been able to adjust to great changes in elevation. Last week we went from 267 feet below sea level to 10,600 above in less than twenty-four hours. Not bad, huh? Now can we make it up Pike's Peak?
On US 160E today we crossed the Rio Grande River. In fact its source is located near South Fork, CO. (No Ewings in sight, though.)
The past four days, we have been watching Magpies swooping and diving along the edges of the road. They are black with white throats and bellies and white tips on their tails. When they perch, the green/teal feathers on their wings can be seen. A beautiful bird.
We stumbled upon the Old Spanish Trail this afternoon. In 1859 Mexican and Spanish pioneers from Santa Fe, NM, were the first to head west along this trail. Since it led to Los Angeles, it eventually became an important route for trade and emigration.
A blast from the past: We saw a two-screen drive-in! And we thought drive-in movies were long gone.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Durango, CO, US 160E to CO 150N and the Great Sand Dunes NP; then CO 150S to US 160E to Walsenburg; finally, I 25N to Pueblo, CO
Last night I bought the new hiking boots I talked about. After I wore them in the motel room all evening and again this morning, I knew that they rubbed on my insteps. So.... back to the store. Forty-five minutes later with the seams flattened with a hammer and new insoles, the problem was solved. Thankfully, since I was not told and did not know that they were not returnable. This stop made us late arriving at Great Sand Dunes NP which was not part of our original itinerary. But with the detour to Mesa Verde yesterday, we were driving by the road leading to the park so why not?
Across the high desert at the foot of the Sangre De Christo Mountains are the 750 foot high Great Sand Dunes. These towering dunes, the tallest on the continent, seem out of place, located in the Rocky Mountains far from any sea. "The dunes were created over thousands of years by southwesterly winds blowing across the San Luis Valley. They were formed when streams of water from melting glaciers carried rocks, gravel, and silt down from the mountains. Accumulating on the valley floor, the sand was picked up by the wind and carried toward the mountains. Even today the winds are changing the face of the dunes. So-called "reversing winds" from the mountains pile the dunes back upon themselves, building them higher and higher."
After watching the film in the Visitor Center we drove out to the Dunes Parking Lot, the trailhead for the hike to the top of the dunes. We walked out on the valley floor, looked up at the ant-sized people climbing the dunes, ran the sand through our fingers, and said to each other, "Yep, that's a mighty big sand dune." Since we usually spend half of the year on the beach in North Carolina, we long ago lost our love of trudging through deep, loose sand. In fact we try to walk the beach only at low tide to avoid it. So we opted for the Montville Nature Trail which led to part of the Wellington Ditch Trail where we could see much of the thirty-six square miles of dunes without walking through a single grain of sand. It really is a magnificent sight to see sun playing on the peaks and the troughs of the dunes.
Miscellanea: Another day, another mountain pass. Today it was Wolf Creek Pass at 10,700 feet. We have been pleased that we have been able to adjust to great changes in elevation. Last week we went from 267 feet below sea level to 10,600 above in less than twenty-four hours. Not bad, huh? Now can we make it up Pike's Peak?
On US 160E today we crossed the Rio Grande River. In fact its source is located near South Fork, CO. (No Ewings in sight, though.)
The past four days, we have been watching Magpies swooping and diving along the edges of the road. They are black with white throats and bellies and white tips on their tails. When they perch, the green/teal feathers on their wings can be seen. A beautiful bird.
We stumbled upon the Old Spanish Trail this afternoon. In 1859 Mexican and Spanish pioneers from Santa Fe, NM, were the first to head west along this trail. Since it led to Los Angeles, it eventually became an important route for trade and emigration.
A blast from the past: We saw a two-screen drive-in! And we thought drive-in movies were long gone.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Durango, CO, US 160E to CO 150N and the Great Sand Dunes NP; then CO 150S to US 160E to Walsenburg; finally, I 25N to Pueblo, CO
Monday, October 18, 2010
Day 51: Mesa Verde National Park
Monday, October 18, 2010 Rain and clouds early; then clouds and sun mix, 55 degrees
About 1200 the Pueblonans moved from mesa tops to cliff alcoves. These structures, built of sandstone blocks and mortar, served as homes, public and religious spaces. The existence of these cliff dwellings was unknown until a rancher, moving his cattle into the valley for the winter grazing, discovered them about 1880. Now over 600 of these dwellings are protected within the park.
Today we were toured two of them: Cliff Palace, the largest, and Spruce Tree House, the best preserved. To get to Cliff Palace we walked down a steep, narrow set of stairs to the alcove level and then used five ladders to ascend 100 feet back to the top. Spruce Tree House was reached by walking a steep paved trail.
We walked across the plazas to gaze into some of the houses which were usually 7' by 12'. Kivas, a ceremonial chamber, were built beneath the plaza floor, and walls, reaching to the top of the alcove, decreased in height as they progress toward the rear. The courses of blocks are amazingly smooth and straight and constructed so well that they remain true even today.
All that is known about the Puebloans is deduced from the artifacts that have been recovered from within the cliff dwellings and from their trash piles. The men were about 5' 4" tall and lived to be 40 years old while the women were about 5' tall and lived to be 25 years old. Their diet consisted of corn, beans, and squash. They were skilled basket weavers and potters, and they traded with other tribes as far away as Mexico and the Pacific coast. By 1300 they abandoned their cliff homes, but no one knows why.
We also drove to the numerous overlooks where we could see more of their buildings including towers, reservoirs, and villages. These are some of the oldest man-made structures in the U.S. Even though we were here just three years ago, we enjoyed visiting the park again.
We saw one more type of tourist today: the "run and gun." One person runs from the car to snap a picture while the other guns the engine to make a get-away to the next spot.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Durango, CO, US 550S to US 160W; then US 160E to US 550N back to Durango
About 1200 the Pueblonans moved from mesa tops to cliff alcoves. These structures, built of sandstone blocks and mortar, served as homes, public and religious spaces. The existence of these cliff dwellings was unknown until a rancher, moving his cattle into the valley for the winter grazing, discovered them about 1880. Now over 600 of these dwellings are protected within the park.
Today we were toured two of them: Cliff Palace, the largest, and Spruce Tree House, the best preserved. To get to Cliff Palace we walked down a steep, narrow set of stairs to the alcove level and then used five ladders to ascend 100 feet back to the top. Spruce Tree House was reached by walking a steep paved trail.
We walked across the plazas to gaze into some of the houses which were usually 7' by 12'. Kivas, a ceremonial chamber, were built beneath the plaza floor, and walls, reaching to the top of the alcove, decreased in height as they progress toward the rear. The courses of blocks are amazingly smooth and straight and constructed so well that they remain true even today.
All that is known about the Puebloans is deduced from the artifacts that have been recovered from within the cliff dwellings and from their trash piles. The men were about 5' 4" tall and lived to be 40 years old while the women were about 5' tall and lived to be 25 years old. Their diet consisted of corn, beans, and squash. They were skilled basket weavers and potters, and they traded with other tribes as far away as Mexico and the Pacific coast. By 1300 they abandoned their cliff homes, but no one knows why.
We also drove to the numerous overlooks where we could see more of their buildings including towers, reservoirs, and villages. These are some of the oldest man-made structures in the U.S. Even though we were here just three years ago, we enjoyed visiting the park again.
We saw one more type of tourist today: the "run and gun." One person runs from the car to snap a picture while the other guns the engine to make a get-away to the next spot.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Durango, CO, US 550S to US 160W; then US 160E to US 550N back to Durango
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Day 50: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Sunday, October 17, 2010 Sunny and 65 degrees----mostly
This morning we took the East Portal Road to the banks of the Gunnison River. It was a five mile drive with up to 16% grade and hairpin turns, but as mountain roads go, it was a broad avenue. (I wasn't even white-knuckled!) The sun was just reaching the bottom of the canyon, lighting up the canyon walls. We could finally see their spectacular colors. Two dams are located at the end of the road. Not only do they generate electricity and divert water to the Uncompahgre Valley, but they have tamed the river, slowing the erosion along its banks. We took a short hike along the river and marveled at the steepness and the ruggedness of the canyon walls. It just reinforced the marvel of the construction of the diversion tunnel which is still providing water to the surrounding area.
Back up on top, we drove to the end of the rim road and then worked our way back, stopping at the pull-outs we missed yesterday. The light was much better for seeing colors and the fins. We peered down at the river, and the rapids far below looked stationary instead of as turbulent as they really are.
Today we decided to take another "detour." Instead of continuing east, we turned south toward Durango and Mesa Verde NP. But there were two things we failed to thoroughly research before we headed out. First we wanted to see the section of the park we missed three years ago. Doing some reading on the way, we discovered that section of the park closes after Labor Day. Obviously, we're going to miss it again. Secondly, we have to learn not to assume what is on the map is accurate. I'll explain.
We left Montrose, CO, which is at 5,763' in elevation and headed south. We noticed, however, that we were steadily climbing. We were enjoying the fall colors, light greens, rusts, and golds contrasting with the evergreens, when we came to the beautiful, little town of Ouray (you-ray). We wound around and up above the town, admiring how nice it looked nestled among the mountains. That's when we found out that we were headed for Red Mountain Pass at 11,075'. We spent the better part of the next hour driving 25 mph around the continuous, serpentine turns. It was a beautiful drive with snow-dusted mountains above, fall colors and numerous abandoned mines to the side, and steep gullies and flowing streams below; however, the reality of the road was very different from what was depicted on the map. When we reached the sensible elevation of 8,800' we were finally able to make brief forays into the 50 mph range. Now on this trip we have purposely made trips into numerous mountains, but this unplanned trip took us to the highest elevation of all. But by now we should have learned to expect the unexpected in the west.
AN OBSERVATION: There are different types of tourists. There are the "I came, I saw, I went" bunch. They breeze through, barely glancing out the car window. Then there is the "aim and shoot" group. They wheel into the parks, aim their cameras out the car windows and shoot before moving on. Then there are the wanderers. They are out and about in the parks, but they don't seem to know where they are or what they're doing. And, then there are those who seem to drink in everything they see and enjoy doing what they can. These are the people we have enjoyed meeting and talking to. We've picked up great travel tips on how to make the most of our time and money. We're already giving some of them a try on this trip.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Black Canyon NP, US 25W to US 550S to Durango, CO
This morning we took the East Portal Road to the banks of the Gunnison River. It was a five mile drive with up to 16% grade and hairpin turns, but as mountain roads go, it was a broad avenue. (I wasn't even white-knuckled!) The sun was just reaching the bottom of the canyon, lighting up the canyon walls. We could finally see their spectacular colors. Two dams are located at the end of the road. Not only do they generate electricity and divert water to the Uncompahgre Valley, but they have tamed the river, slowing the erosion along its banks. We took a short hike along the river and marveled at the steepness and the ruggedness of the canyon walls. It just reinforced the marvel of the construction of the diversion tunnel which is still providing water to the surrounding area.
Back up on top, we drove to the end of the rim road and then worked our way back, stopping at the pull-outs we missed yesterday. The light was much better for seeing colors and the fins. We peered down at the river, and the rapids far below looked stationary instead of as turbulent as they really are.
Today we decided to take another "detour." Instead of continuing east, we turned south toward Durango and Mesa Verde NP. But there were two things we failed to thoroughly research before we headed out. First we wanted to see the section of the park we missed three years ago. Doing some reading on the way, we discovered that section of the park closes after Labor Day. Obviously, we're going to miss it again. Secondly, we have to learn not to assume what is on the map is accurate. I'll explain.
We left Montrose, CO, which is at 5,763' in elevation and headed south. We noticed, however, that we were steadily climbing. We were enjoying the fall colors, light greens, rusts, and golds contrasting with the evergreens, when we came to the beautiful, little town of Ouray (you-ray). We wound around and up above the town, admiring how nice it looked nestled among the mountains. That's when we found out that we were headed for Red Mountain Pass at 11,075'. We spent the better part of the next hour driving 25 mph around the continuous, serpentine turns. It was a beautiful drive with snow-dusted mountains above, fall colors and numerous abandoned mines to the side, and steep gullies and flowing streams below; however, the reality of the road was very different from what was depicted on the map. When we reached the sensible elevation of 8,800' we were finally able to make brief forays into the 50 mph range. Now on this trip we have purposely made trips into numerous mountains, but this unplanned trip took us to the highest elevation of all. But by now we should have learned to expect the unexpected in the west.
AN OBSERVATION: There are different types of tourists. There are the "I came, I saw, I went" bunch. They breeze through, barely glancing out the car window. Then there is the "aim and shoot" group. They wheel into the parks, aim their cameras out the car windows and shoot before moving on. Then there are the wanderers. They are out and about in the parks, but they don't seem to know where they are or what they're doing. And, then there are those who seem to drink in everything they see and enjoy doing what they can. These are the people we have enjoyed meeting and talking to. We've picked up great travel tips on how to make the most of our time and money. We're already giving some of them a try on this trip.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Black Canyon NP, US 25W to US 550S to Durango, CO
Day 49: Grand Junction, CO; Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Saturday, October 16, 2010 Sunny and 72 degrees
Finding a post office and restocking at Walmart (not so easy to do in the west) were at the top of our agenda this morning. Afterward we made short stops at Ross and Sports Warehouse. I think that my ankle problems may be caused by the hard soles on my hiking boots not gripping as they should, so now I'm trying to find out what might be best option for me.
Then we drove into Grand Junction. We've been looking forward to returning here since our first visit three+ years ago. This time it was obvious that the economy hasn't been kind. Numerous store fronts are now empty. The construction of a Marriott across from the Convention Center is the only positive we could see. However, this still is a very pedestrian friendly place: brick paver sidewalks, mature trees, and major traffic diverted to I 70 Business and US 50. What makes it fun is all of the sculptures found along Main Street: a bison made of car bumpers; a woman riding a bike; a frog prince; children playing in a fountain; a boy riding on his father's shoulder's; a huge dragonfly with mobile wings, intertwined railroad axles and wheels to name just a few. I didn't mention the abstract scupltures because I don't "get" them.
For lunch we went back to Dolce Vita for a delicious and huge Italian dish of pasta, sausage, and great variety of fresh vegetables. Of course, we had to have dessert, too. Yum. After all of that we didn't need supper tonight!
When we drove into Black Canyon this afternoon, we gasped. We turned a corner, and suddenly the whole earth fell away into an enormous wild, raw, rugged chasm with nearly vertical walls. "The Black Canyon of the Gunnison has the greatest combination of depth, steepness, and narrowness of any canyon in North America." It ranges from 1,730 to 2,700 feet in depth , drops an average of 95 feet per mile, and is only 40 feet wide at its narrowest point. The canyon was formed by water chiseling and shaping the metamorphic (schist and gneiss) and igneous (granite) rocks. The freeze-thaw process contributes to the formation of the columns, spires, and fins found mostly on the south walls. In fact the north side of the canyon is steeper than the south because sunlight, hitting its south-facing walls, causes moisture to evaporate, slowing the freeze-thaw cycle.
The film at the Visitor Center related not only the formation of the canyon, but mans attempt to explore it. In 1853 John Gunnison with a survey team entered the canyon to find the best location for a railroad. This attempt failed, and it was not until 1882 that a survey was completed, and then Italian and Irish immigrants, using picks, shovels, and hammers, were able to construct a railroad part way through the canyon. Finally, in the early 1900's, Fellows and Torrence were the first to explore the entire length of the canyon. By jumping into the rapids and "going with the flow," they discovered the best place to construct a tunnel that diverted water from the canyon to the nearby valley floor to make it arable.
We drove the seven mile road through the park, stopping at many of the pull-outs. At first glance the canyon walls look black, but as the sun shines on them up pinks, tans, and various mineral deposits light up. Even from our high vantage point, the roar of the Gunnison River echoes up the steep canyon walls.
From Chasm Point we looked down at the banks of the river and saw 7-8 kayakers struggling to portage an area where the river disappears beneath huge boulders. The difficulty of the terrain was obvious as they slowly made their way up the bank and along the base of the canyon. The sun was low, casting dark shadows below, and those of us watching from above wondered how and when they would make it around the boulders and how and where they would to spend the night.
Tomorrow we plan to return to the park to hike what few trail there are. The most interesting one may be beyond our capabilities. We'll be checking with the rangers to find out.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Fruita, CO, I 70E to Grand Junction, CO; then US 50E to Montrose, CO, and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
TOTAL MILEAGE TO DATE: 9,736 miles
Finding a post office and restocking at Walmart (not so easy to do in the west) were at the top of our agenda this morning. Afterward we made short stops at Ross and Sports Warehouse. I think that my ankle problems may be caused by the hard soles on my hiking boots not gripping as they should, so now I'm trying to find out what might be best option for me.
Then we drove into Grand Junction. We've been looking forward to returning here since our first visit three+ years ago. This time it was obvious that the economy hasn't been kind. Numerous store fronts are now empty. The construction of a Marriott across from the Convention Center is the only positive we could see. However, this still is a very pedestrian friendly place: brick paver sidewalks, mature trees, and major traffic diverted to I 70 Business and US 50. What makes it fun is all of the sculptures found along Main Street: a bison made of car bumpers; a woman riding a bike; a frog prince; children playing in a fountain; a boy riding on his father's shoulder's; a huge dragonfly with mobile wings, intertwined railroad axles and wheels to name just a few. I didn't mention the abstract scupltures because I don't "get" them.
For lunch we went back to Dolce Vita for a delicious and huge Italian dish of pasta, sausage, and great variety of fresh vegetables. Of course, we had to have dessert, too. Yum. After all of that we didn't need supper tonight!
When we drove into Black Canyon this afternoon, we gasped. We turned a corner, and suddenly the whole earth fell away into an enormous wild, raw, rugged chasm with nearly vertical walls. "The Black Canyon of the Gunnison has the greatest combination of depth, steepness, and narrowness of any canyon in North America." It ranges from 1,730 to 2,700 feet in depth , drops an average of 95 feet per mile, and is only 40 feet wide at its narrowest point. The canyon was formed by water chiseling and shaping the metamorphic (schist and gneiss) and igneous (granite) rocks. The freeze-thaw process contributes to the formation of the columns, spires, and fins found mostly on the south walls. In fact the north side of the canyon is steeper than the south because sunlight, hitting its south-facing walls, causes moisture to evaporate, slowing the freeze-thaw cycle.
The film at the Visitor Center related not only the formation of the canyon, but mans attempt to explore it. In 1853 John Gunnison with a survey team entered the canyon to find the best location for a railroad. This attempt failed, and it was not until 1882 that a survey was completed, and then Italian and Irish immigrants, using picks, shovels, and hammers, were able to construct a railroad part way through the canyon. Finally, in the early 1900's, Fellows and Torrence were the first to explore the entire length of the canyon. By jumping into the rapids and "going with the flow," they discovered the best place to construct a tunnel that diverted water from the canyon to the nearby valley floor to make it arable.
We drove the seven mile road through the park, stopping at many of the pull-outs. At first glance the canyon walls look black, but as the sun shines on them up pinks, tans, and various mineral deposits light up. Even from our high vantage point, the roar of the Gunnison River echoes up the steep canyon walls.
From Chasm Point we looked down at the banks of the river and saw 7-8 kayakers struggling to portage an area where the river disappears beneath huge boulders. The difficulty of the terrain was obvious as they slowly made their way up the bank and along the base of the canyon. The sun was low, casting dark shadows below, and those of us watching from above wondered how and when they would make it around the boulders and how and where they would to spend the night.
Tomorrow we plan to return to the park to hike what few trail there are. The most interesting one may be beyond our capabilities. We'll be checking with the rangers to find out.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Fruita, CO, I 70E to Grand Junction, CO; then US 50E to Montrose, CO, and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
TOTAL MILEAGE TO DATE: 9,736 miles
Friday, October 15, 2010
Day 48: Arches National Park
Friday, October 15, 2010 Sunny and 77 degrees!!!!
"Arches National Park contains a lot or rocks. The area is a virtual layer cake of rock miles thick, a celebration of sandstones, mudstones, shales, salts, and limestones all stacked one upon another." If you've been following our blog, you know that it means there are lots of different sizes, shapes, and colors of rocks here as there have been through out our entire trip. But the arch is the formation found mostly in this park, and we spent the entire day hiking to some of them.
We drove to the furthest end of the park to hike to Landscape Arch. At 306 feet, it is the longest and thinnest of all the arches, just a ribbon of rock stretching across the side of the canyon. We started up the steep, rocky part of the same trail, but decided against it. Instead we turned back to see Pine Arch, which has a tree growing under it, and Tunnel Arches. Not too hard to figure that one out. As we were returning to the trailhead, we saw five mule deer, grazing nonchalantly while many hikers snapped their pictures.
At this point I should mention that Utah schools had this week off for Fall Break. The park was teeming with families and children of all ages---tiny babies to teenagers. We had to avoid being run down by kids that were racing up the trails. Thankfully, this is the first time on this trip that we've had to deal with hordes of kids running amok.
At Skyline Arch we met a young couple from England. They quit their jobs, flew to the US in July, and rented a van in New Jersey. They have been touring the country from east to west ever since. After today they are headed south, then east, planning to return home in time for Christmas. From then on we saw them at every stop we made. We enjoyed hearing how they were making use of their time and their van, were doing their meals, and their experiences in the US. That has been a bonus on this trip, all of the interesting people we've met from here and aboard.
As we continued to make our way back toward the park entrance, we stopped at Fiery Furnace and Salt Valley Overlooks, and Delicate Arch which is featured on the Utah license plates. Because of its unusual shape, it is also called Old Ladies Bloomers or Cowboy Chaps. At that same trailhead we walked to Wolfe Ranch, home to a Civil War veteran who moved here from Ohio in 1898. He and his son lived in a cabin that was no more than a small lean-to. When his daughter and her family moved in in 1907, they built a 14'x18' cabin. I can't imagine how they all lived in such tight, rustic quarters for three years.
When we started up the trail to North and South Window Arches, I turned my ankle again. So....the swelling is back, but I still have only mild discomfort. We gave up that hike and walked---gingerly on my part---to Double Arch. The description is lacking because the shape is more complex than that, more like two adjacent arches with a third arch overhead. This is our favorite of all we have seen.
By now the afternoon was slipping away, so we drove to the Visitor Center, passing by Balanced Rock, the Three Gossips, Courthouse Towers, The Organ, and Tower of Babel. We watched a fifteen minute film about Arches and neighboring Canyonlands National Parks before heading to Colorado. While it was a pleasant day, I now wish that we had gone back to Mesa Verde NP instead since part of that park was closed when we were there three years ago.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Moab, UT 191N to Arches NP, then UT 191N to I 70E to Fruita, CO
"Arches National Park contains a lot or rocks. The area is a virtual layer cake of rock miles thick, a celebration of sandstones, mudstones, shales, salts, and limestones all stacked one upon another." If you've been following our blog, you know that it means there are lots of different sizes, shapes, and colors of rocks here as there have been through out our entire trip. But the arch is the formation found mostly in this park, and we spent the entire day hiking to some of them.
We drove to the furthest end of the park to hike to Landscape Arch. At 306 feet, it is the longest and thinnest of all the arches, just a ribbon of rock stretching across the side of the canyon. We started up the steep, rocky part of the same trail, but decided against it. Instead we turned back to see Pine Arch, which has a tree growing under it, and Tunnel Arches. Not too hard to figure that one out. As we were returning to the trailhead, we saw five mule deer, grazing nonchalantly while many hikers snapped their pictures.
At this point I should mention that Utah schools had this week off for Fall Break. The park was teeming with families and children of all ages---tiny babies to teenagers. We had to avoid being run down by kids that were racing up the trails. Thankfully, this is the first time on this trip that we've had to deal with hordes of kids running amok.
At Skyline Arch we met a young couple from England. They quit their jobs, flew to the US in July, and rented a van in New Jersey. They have been touring the country from east to west ever since. After today they are headed south, then east, planning to return home in time for Christmas. From then on we saw them at every stop we made. We enjoyed hearing how they were making use of their time and their van, were doing their meals, and their experiences in the US. That has been a bonus on this trip, all of the interesting people we've met from here and aboard.
As we continued to make our way back toward the park entrance, we stopped at Fiery Furnace and Salt Valley Overlooks, and Delicate Arch which is featured on the Utah license plates. Because of its unusual shape, it is also called Old Ladies Bloomers or Cowboy Chaps. At that same trailhead we walked to Wolfe Ranch, home to a Civil War veteran who moved here from Ohio in 1898. He and his son lived in a cabin that was no more than a small lean-to. When his daughter and her family moved in in 1907, they built a 14'x18' cabin. I can't imagine how they all lived in such tight, rustic quarters for three years.
When we started up the trail to North and South Window Arches, I turned my ankle again. So....the swelling is back, but I still have only mild discomfort. We gave up that hike and walked---gingerly on my part---to Double Arch. The description is lacking because the shape is more complex than that, more like two adjacent arches with a third arch overhead. This is our favorite of all we have seen.
By now the afternoon was slipping away, so we drove to the Visitor Center, passing by Balanced Rock, the Three Gossips, Courthouse Towers, The Organ, and Tower of Babel. We watched a fifteen minute film about Arches and neighboring Canyonlands National Parks before heading to Colorado. While it was a pleasant day, I now wish that we had gone back to Mesa Verde NP instead since part of that park was closed when we were there three years ago.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Moab, UT 191N to Arches NP, then UT 191N to I 70E to Fruita, CO
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