Tuesday, September 14, 2010 Sunny and 63 degrees
Just inside the Stevens Canyon Entrance is the Grove of the Patriarchs. This is an old growth forest of enormous cedars and Douglas firs. These trees tower to a height of 300 feet, and some are 1,000 years old. They create a thick canopy that darkens the forest floor. Yet there is vibrant life below. Ferns, lichens, and mosses are growing on fallen tree stumps, creating a rich environment for the next generation of trees. This was a short loop hike that included a suspension bridge over the Ohanapechosh River. It vibrates and sways so much that only one person can cross at a time. But I bet kids make it into quite a ride.
Mount Rainier was reigning over the park again today. Driving into the park from the Stevens Canyon Entrance, we rounded a corner to see it glistening in the morning sun. As we climbed into the park, we stopped at many pull-outs. One was Box Canyon. Glaciers had cut a very deep, narrow gash in the rocks, and a small river was racing through it. Looking to the southeast beyond the canyon, we saw another glacier-covered mountain. Later we learned it is Mt. Adams, rising to a height of 12,276 feet. We also stopped at Reflection Lake, and with the clear skies, Mt. Rainier was perfectly reflected, just as we've seen in so many pictures.
We climbed on to the Paradise Visitor Center where we watched two films about the park and viewed the exhibits about indigenous plants and animals. Then we headed out on the Deadhorse Creek Trail. It wound through a lushly flowered sub-alpine meadow, another brook tumbling over rocks. Near the trail a marmot held flower stems between his paws and munched on its blooms, fattening himself for winter. This trail merged with the Skyline Trail, and we followed it to the Glacier Vista overlook. Nisqually Glacier is dusty colored on its flat surface, but in its deep crevasses, blue, typical of all glaciers, was visible. Below the glacier, Nisqually River was littered with boulders and trees, the evidence of a massive flood six years ago. Twenty-seven inches of rain had fallen over five days on top of five feet of snow, causing the watery disaster.
Clouds began moving in from the west, wrapping themselves around the mountain, obscuring the summit. As we descended Alta Vista Trail, the clouds followed us down the sides of the mountain. Also coming down from the mountain was a group of men who were returning from climbing to the summit of Mt. Rainier. Even after five days, they were still exuding a lot of energy. Accomplishing this feat must be quite a high.
We have now seen two of North America's highest peaks, Denali and Mt. Rainer. Many people travel miles to view these mountains and most leave never having seen them because of clouds or other weather phenomenon. We feel very blessed.
OTHER OBSERVATIONS: While the Visitor Centers are closing, a frenzy of work is going on in other places. Roads are being resurfaced, creating traffic back-ups. All afternoon a helicopter ferried supplies and materials into the camps and transported trash and waste out. Along the sides of the roads, Park Rangers collected flowers and seeds which they take to the park greenhouse to germinate. As part of the park's ongoing restoration project, after three years these new plants are reintroduced to the park.
TODAY'S ROUTE: From Packwood, US 12N to WA 123 through the park to WA 706 to WA 702 to WA 510 to Lacey, WA.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Day 16: Mount Rainier National Park
Monday, September 13, 2010 Sunny all day!!!! 65 degrees
Mount Rainier is one of the highest mountains in the Lower 48 at 14,441 feet. It has more glaciers than any other single mountain in the Lower 48, and today it was showing off. It was not creating its own weather which means no clouds, no fog, and no snow or rain which is very unusual for a mountain of this height. Rainer's white-capped summit sparkled all day in the bright sunshine. It was mesmerizing. It may have seemed all that more impressive because the mountains around its base are heavily forested so the contrast is that much greater.
We drove to the Sunrise Visitor Center (which closed today) located at the highest point in the park that is accessible by car. We spent the entire morning hiking. The Sunrise Trail led us to a point where we could see the Cascade Mountains to the north and Mt. Rainier filling the horizon to the south. That trail connected to the Sourdough Ridge Trail which looked down into a valley with glacial streams meandering through it.
We decided to continue along that trail to Frozen Lake. It seemed much further than indicated on the map, and when we finally reached the lake, we were unimpressed. It looked like a farm pond. But that didn't diminish the value of the hike since along the way, we could look down on Shadow Lake which was reflecting trees and sky on its surface, and we were face-to-face with Mt. Rainier. It can't get any more impressive than that.
In the afternoon we went south to the Ohanapecosh Visitor Center. The contrast between these two sections of the park is phenomenal. While the Sunrise section is alpine-meadow, this section is a very damp and forested area. This center was open, and we studied a relief map that identified all the glaciers on Mt. Rainier. There were also displays of the animals and trees that are indigenous to that part of the park.
We grabbed another trail map and headed out. The Hot Springs Nature Trail was an interpretive trail, identifying plants along the path, and as it name suggests, it led to warm springs that bubbled up out of nowhere. We decided---not too wisely---to continue on to the Silver Falls Trail. This wound along a stream and on through the forest. By this time it was late afternoon, and we were very tired. We plugged along and were rewarded with a waterfall that fell multiple times, tumbling over rocks and flowing around fallen logs. A nice reward for the effort.
Tomorrow we plan to visit the Paradise and Longmire sections of the park.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Buckley, WA 410 to WA 123 to US 12 in Packwood
Mount Rainier is one of the highest mountains in the Lower 48 at 14,441 feet. It has more glaciers than any other single mountain in the Lower 48, and today it was showing off. It was not creating its own weather which means no clouds, no fog, and no snow or rain which is very unusual for a mountain of this height. Rainer's white-capped summit sparkled all day in the bright sunshine. It was mesmerizing. It may have seemed all that more impressive because the mountains around its base are heavily forested so the contrast is that much greater.
We drove to the Sunrise Visitor Center (which closed today) located at the highest point in the park that is accessible by car. We spent the entire morning hiking. The Sunrise Trail led us to a point where we could see the Cascade Mountains to the north and Mt. Rainier filling the horizon to the south. That trail connected to the Sourdough Ridge Trail which looked down into a valley with glacial streams meandering through it.
We decided to continue along that trail to Frozen Lake. It seemed much further than indicated on the map, and when we finally reached the lake, we were unimpressed. It looked like a farm pond. But that didn't diminish the value of the hike since along the way, we could look down on Shadow Lake which was reflecting trees and sky on its surface, and we were face-to-face with Mt. Rainier. It can't get any more impressive than that.
In the afternoon we went south to the Ohanapecosh Visitor Center. The contrast between these two sections of the park is phenomenal. While the Sunrise section is alpine-meadow, this section is a very damp and forested area. This center was open, and we studied a relief map that identified all the glaciers on Mt. Rainier. There were also displays of the animals and trees that are indigenous to that part of the park.
We grabbed another trail map and headed out. The Hot Springs Nature Trail was an interpretive trail, identifying plants along the path, and as it name suggests, it led to warm springs that bubbled up out of nowhere. We decided---not too wisely---to continue on to the Silver Falls Trail. This wound along a stream and on through the forest. By this time it was late afternoon, and we were very tired. We plugged along and were rewarded with a waterfall that fell multiple times, tumbling over rocks and flowing around fallen logs. A nice reward for the effort.
Tomorrow we plan to visit the Paradise and Longmire sections of the park.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Buckley, WA 410 to WA 123 to US 12 in Packwood
Monday, September 13, 2010
Day 15: Museum of Flight, Seattle, WA
Sunday, September 12, 2010 Morning: rainy, 45 degrees; afternoon, clearing, 73 degrees
Clouds hovering over the mountain tops, fog settling in the valleys, and last night's rain still hanging in the air meant that our plans to take a scenic drive to Mt. Baker were a wash-out. Institute Plan B.
The first part of plan B included a visit to the Klondike Gold Rush Museum. Ever since our trip to Alaska, we've never really understood the mania that possessed those who were smitten with gold fever, so we thought it would be interesting to see how those men prepared for their ill-advised adventure. We were directly in front of the museum when we began our search for parking. Many lots and garages were in the area, but they said "Event Parking Only" or "Event Parking, $35." People were milling around the streets, and some were standing on the street corner with signs that read "I need tickets" as we drove in circles looking for that elusive parking space. After a half hour we decided to go with the second part of Plan B: the Museum of Flight."
The Museum of Flight is a gem. While we have not visited the Air and Space Museum near Dulles Airport, this certainly rivals the one on the Mall in D.C. Exhibits represent all eras of flight from the Wright Brothers and Glenn Curtiss through World Wars I and II, and into the Space Era. Aircraft were everywhere.
We first crossed to the outdoor exhibits and boarded the SST Concorde and the Air Force One that carried presidents Eisenhower through Reagen around the nation and the world. Back in the main building we spent a long time in the World War II area that displayed aircraft, uniforms, videos of the Battle of Britain, for example, recordings of historic radio broadcasts, films, and many placards that gave in-depth information about all three Theaters of War. It is the most thorough history lesson of this war that we've ever had.
In the Space Age section were the same types of displays from the beginnings of the Space Race to the current International Space Station. The evolution of space exploration from the theories of scientists as early as the 1920's to today is a wonder. And how men agreed to be sandwiched into those earliest modules and catapulted into space is beyond me. It's clear, though, that exploration further into space will require another giant leap of scientific and engineering knowledge.
Before we left, we wandered through the section that showed the workings of a control tower, around various military and civilian aircraft, and through the Red Barn which was the original Boeing Factory. We were there over five hours, and if we had the stamina, there was still more to be seen. Although we missed the opportunity enjoy another mountain vista, we felt that our day was well spent.
Tomorrow the weather will again affect the success of our plans, this time to Mt. Rainier. We know the chances of seeing its peak are small, but we're hoping to hike trails that will lead us to some beautiful views.
And the event that hogged all the parking? The Seattle Seahawks were playing the Oakland Raiders, and they won.
TODAY'S ROUTE: WA 20 to I 5S, to Auburn, and then WA 164 to Buckley
Clouds hovering over the mountain tops, fog settling in the valleys, and last night's rain still hanging in the air meant that our plans to take a scenic drive to Mt. Baker were a wash-out. Institute Plan B.
The first part of plan B included a visit to the Klondike Gold Rush Museum. Ever since our trip to Alaska, we've never really understood the mania that possessed those who were smitten with gold fever, so we thought it would be interesting to see how those men prepared for their ill-advised adventure. We were directly in front of the museum when we began our search for parking. Many lots and garages were in the area, but they said "Event Parking Only" or "Event Parking, $35." People were milling around the streets, and some were standing on the street corner with signs that read "I need tickets" as we drove in circles looking for that elusive parking space. After a half hour we decided to go with the second part of Plan B: the Museum of Flight."
The Museum of Flight is a gem. While we have not visited the Air and Space Museum near Dulles Airport, this certainly rivals the one on the Mall in D.C. Exhibits represent all eras of flight from the Wright Brothers and Glenn Curtiss through World Wars I and II, and into the Space Era. Aircraft were everywhere.
We first crossed to the outdoor exhibits and boarded the SST Concorde and the Air Force One that carried presidents Eisenhower through Reagen around the nation and the world. Back in the main building we spent a long time in the World War II area that displayed aircraft, uniforms, videos of the Battle of Britain, for example, recordings of historic radio broadcasts, films, and many placards that gave in-depth information about all three Theaters of War. It is the most thorough history lesson of this war that we've ever had.
In the Space Age section were the same types of displays from the beginnings of the Space Race to the current International Space Station. The evolution of space exploration from the theories of scientists as early as the 1920's to today is a wonder. And how men agreed to be sandwiched into those earliest modules and catapulted into space is beyond me. It's clear, though, that exploration further into space will require another giant leap of scientific and engineering knowledge.
Before we left, we wandered through the section that showed the workings of a control tower, around various military and civilian aircraft, and through the Red Barn which was the original Boeing Factory. We were there over five hours, and if we had the stamina, there was still more to be seen. Although we missed the opportunity enjoy another mountain vista, we felt that our day was well spent.
Tomorrow the weather will again affect the success of our plans, this time to Mt. Rainier. We know the chances of seeing its peak are small, but we're hoping to hike trails that will lead us to some beautiful views.
And the event that hogged all the parking? The Seattle Seahawks were playing the Oakland Raiders, and they won.
TODAY'S ROUTE: WA 20 to I 5S, to Auburn, and then WA 164 to Buckley
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Day 14: North Cascades National Park
September 11, 2010 Mostly sunny, 54 degrees
The value of water in the west is not to be underestimated. Apple, peach, and cherry orchards are flourishing in areas normally covered with sagebrush all because of irrigation made possible because of Grand Coulee Dam. All along the route we took from Omak to North Cascades National Park, fields were being irrigated, even hay fields.
We were totally unprepared for the beauty of North Cascades NP. Our national parks book failed to describe it accurately. Unsurprisingly, some of the almost vertical mountainsides are covered with trees, and others are barren. The surprise, however, was the glaciers. We learned that Northern Cascades NP has more glaciers than anywhere else in the Lower 48---over 300---and many more than Glacier NP. They are almost everywhere we looked, and many were large as well. They also are the source of numerous waterfalls cascading from high on the mountainsides, their presence revealed as their spray glints in the sunlight.
Except for the serious backpacker, NCNP can only be enjoyed from the road. The steep mountains and narrow valleys limit access to its rugged beauty, so much of the park is undeveloped. Few trails are appropriate for the average hiker, so we viewed the park from the many overlooks. And there is much to be seen from the overlooks. In addition to the mountains, glaciers and waterfalls, three dams, Ross, Diablo, and Gorge, have been constructed in the park. Behind each is a lake with glacial silt tinting the water green. Some have islands in them, and these waters are obviously very popular adventurous individuals as evidenced by the number of canoes and kayaks plying their waters.
During our time in the park, we found two short trails to hike before we arrived at the Visitors Center, located on the opposite side of the park from where we entered. There we found out that there were other trails we could have tried if we had only known about them. Bummer. We suggested that maps be made available at both entrances.
Another great feature of the park is the road. It is a state highway which is wide and well-maintained, unlike the roads we slogged through in Theodore Roosevelt and Glacier NPs.
Our plans for tomorrow are up in the air since rain is in the forecast again. We'd hoped to take a scenic drive to MT. Baker, but it will be futile if everything is shrouded in clouds and fog.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Omak, WA 155 to WA 20 through the park to Sedro Woolley
TOTAL MILEAGE TO DATE: 3,900 miles
The value of water in the west is not to be underestimated. Apple, peach, and cherry orchards are flourishing in areas normally covered with sagebrush all because of irrigation made possible because of Grand Coulee Dam. All along the route we took from Omak to North Cascades National Park, fields were being irrigated, even hay fields.
We were totally unprepared for the beauty of North Cascades NP. Our national parks book failed to describe it accurately. Unsurprisingly, some of the almost vertical mountainsides are covered with trees, and others are barren. The surprise, however, was the glaciers. We learned that Northern Cascades NP has more glaciers than anywhere else in the Lower 48---over 300---and many more than Glacier NP. They are almost everywhere we looked, and many were large as well. They also are the source of numerous waterfalls cascading from high on the mountainsides, their presence revealed as their spray glints in the sunlight.
Except for the serious backpacker, NCNP can only be enjoyed from the road. The steep mountains and narrow valleys limit access to its rugged beauty, so much of the park is undeveloped. Few trails are appropriate for the average hiker, so we viewed the park from the many overlooks. And there is much to be seen from the overlooks. In addition to the mountains, glaciers and waterfalls, three dams, Ross, Diablo, and Gorge, have been constructed in the park. Behind each is a lake with glacial silt tinting the water green. Some have islands in them, and these waters are obviously very popular adventurous individuals as evidenced by the number of canoes and kayaks plying their waters.
During our time in the park, we found two short trails to hike before we arrived at the Visitors Center, located on the opposite side of the park from where we entered. There we found out that there were other trails we could have tried if we had only known about them. Bummer. We suggested that maps be made available at both entrances.
Another great feature of the park is the road. It is a state highway which is wide and well-maintained, unlike the roads we slogged through in Theodore Roosevelt and Glacier NPs.
Our plans for tomorrow are up in the air since rain is in the forecast again. We'd hoped to take a scenic drive to MT. Baker, but it will be futile if everything is shrouded in clouds and fog.
TODAY'S ROUTE: from Omak, WA 155 to WA 20 through the park to Sedro Woolley
TOTAL MILEAGE TO DATE: 3,900 miles
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Day 13: Coeur d'Alene, ID to Omak, WA
Friday, September, 10, 2010 Mostly sunny, 71 degrees
FORT SPOKANE: In anticipation of hostilities, Fort Spokane was built in 1880 to protect the settlers moving into the area and to protect the rights of the Colville and Spokane Indians who lived there. But peace "broke out," and soldiers never saw any action, resulting in a boring tour of duty. In 1898 the entire garrison was withdrawn, and most of the troops were sent to serve in the Spanish-American War. The fort then became a school for native children. Its purpose was to strip them of their native culture and to assimilate them into the culture of whites. That school, too, closed, and its final use was as a hospital for the treatment of tuberculosis. Forty-five buildings were constructed, four of which still remain. A trail guide explained the site and purpose of each building.
What made this stop interesting was not so much the fort itself, but the dedication ceremony the Spokane Indians were conducting when we arrived. The ceremony continued for four hours. As we were leaving, an elder was speaking to the assembly, stressing the importance of preserving their culture and language. Following his speech, he began to chant. Soon others began singing and ringing small bells. One man was wearing elaborate native dress: bright colors in his clothing, bead work, and feathers. It was an impressive ceremony, and one that will be repeated for the public next week.
GRAND COULEE DAM: Built during the Depression to harness the Columbia River, Grand Coulee Dam is the largest hydropower producer in the US with a total generating capacity of 6,809 megawatts. It is the fourth largest dam in the world. Hoover Dam, though higher, would easily fit at the foot of the spillway. The dam was built, obviously, to supply power, but also to irrigate 600,000 semi-arid acres with the capability of irrigating 1,000,000 acres. Once unproductive land now produces bushels of grain and many kinds of fruit.
On our tour of the third power plant, we saw penstocks large enough to drive three Greyhound buses side-by-side through with room to spare. These penstocks bring water from Lake Roosevelt into the turbines. Inside the plant are six generators, three producing 600 megawatts each, and three producing 805 megawatts each. Large bridge and gantry cranes are used to service the generators. Everything is massive in size. Power produced by the dam supplies the entire Pacific Coast. Next we were driven through town and onto the top of the dam. The dam is impressive just driving by it, but looking down from the top down the face of the dam is truly awesome.
TODAY'S OBSERVATIONS:
Eastern Washington is mostly flat with untold acres of golden wheat, stretching from one horizon to the other. The wheat is being harvested and the straw baled, and the fields sprayed---with what, we don't know---in preparation for tilling and replanting. Considering the vast acreage, it must be ongoing year round.
TODAY'S ROUTE: From Couer d'Alene, ID, I 90W to US 2W to WA 25N, to WA 174 to WA 155 to Omak, WA
FORT SPOKANE: In anticipation of hostilities, Fort Spokane was built in 1880 to protect the settlers moving into the area and to protect the rights of the Colville and Spokane Indians who lived there. But peace "broke out," and soldiers never saw any action, resulting in a boring tour of duty. In 1898 the entire garrison was withdrawn, and most of the troops were sent to serve in the Spanish-American War. The fort then became a school for native children. Its purpose was to strip them of their native culture and to assimilate them into the culture of whites. That school, too, closed, and its final use was as a hospital for the treatment of tuberculosis. Forty-five buildings were constructed, four of which still remain. A trail guide explained the site and purpose of each building.
What made this stop interesting was not so much the fort itself, but the dedication ceremony the Spokane Indians were conducting when we arrived. The ceremony continued for four hours. As we were leaving, an elder was speaking to the assembly, stressing the importance of preserving their culture and language. Following his speech, he began to chant. Soon others began singing and ringing small bells. One man was wearing elaborate native dress: bright colors in his clothing, bead work, and feathers. It was an impressive ceremony, and one that will be repeated for the public next week.
GRAND COULEE DAM: Built during the Depression to harness the Columbia River, Grand Coulee Dam is the largest hydropower producer in the US with a total generating capacity of 6,809 megawatts. It is the fourth largest dam in the world. Hoover Dam, though higher, would easily fit at the foot of the spillway. The dam was built, obviously, to supply power, but also to irrigate 600,000 semi-arid acres with the capability of irrigating 1,000,000 acres. Once unproductive land now produces bushels of grain and many kinds of fruit.
On our tour of the third power plant, we saw penstocks large enough to drive three Greyhound buses side-by-side through with room to spare. These penstocks bring water from Lake Roosevelt into the turbines. Inside the plant are six generators, three producing 600 megawatts each, and three producing 805 megawatts each. Large bridge and gantry cranes are used to service the generators. Everything is massive in size. Power produced by the dam supplies the entire Pacific Coast. Next we were driven through town and onto the top of the dam. The dam is impressive just driving by it, but looking down from the top down the face of the dam is truly awesome.
TODAY'S OBSERVATIONS:
Eastern Washington is mostly flat with untold acres of golden wheat, stretching from one horizon to the other. The wheat is being harvested and the straw baled, and the fields sprayed---with what, we don't know---in preparation for tilling and replanting. Considering the vast acreage, it must be ongoing year round.
TODAY'S ROUTE: From Couer d'Alene, ID, I 90W to US 2W to WA 25N, to WA 174 to WA 155 to Omak, WA
Friday, September 10, 2010
Day 12: Browning, MT to Coeur d'Alene, ID
Thursday, September 9, 2010 Steady rain all morning, 43 degrees; intermittent rain all afternoon, 55-65-55
Pacific Time Zone
The road from East Glacier to West Glacier is in a deep, narrow valley with more evergreens towering overhead. Rain followed us into the park. The western side Glacier is very different from the eastern side. The park is lower in altitude and very lush. McDonald Lake reigns supreme. It is very large and has a lodge, falls, creek, rapids, and drive named after it. The setting is very like the Adirondack Mountains with fir and cedar trees being dominate. In fact, further up the road we hiked the Trail of Cedars which has some of the largest trees we've seen to this point, and some of which are 500 years old. The trail led to Avalanche Falls. Its course was very fast as it twisted and fell over the huge rocks that lay in its way. Across the road the McDonald Rapids also were running full because of the recent rains.
Leaving the park we headed west again on what has become our favorite route, US 2. We've enjoyed all of the amazing scenery that we would have missed driving the interstates. As we continued through Montana and into Idaho, we passed numerous alpine-like lakes, laying at the foot of mountains and, of course, surrounded by trees. Today fog filled the valleys between the mountains, wrapping them in what looked like cotton candy. Both states are remarkably beautiful, but the long, cold winters would test the hardiest of souls. And there must be many of them because, unlike lodging in many areas of the country, rates are higher here in winter than in summer.
LAST MINUTE OBSERVATIONS: Services are already being curtailed in Glacier NP. Visitor Center hours have been shortened, the shuttle service has ended, and tour boats are being removed from the lakes.
Montana has no sales tax! I can't remember the last time I paid exactly what the list price was.
North Dakota receives $2 in Federal aid for every tax dollar collected. What's with that?
In Montana and Idaho we've seen pull-out areas for chaining up and chain removal, and even one for cell phone service. Some of the people who have a cell phone permanently attached to their head would probably have withdrawal out here with now-you-have-it-now-you-don't cell service.
In Glacier NP this morning we had a lengthy conversation with a couple from Oregon. They confirmed the observations our friends Bill and Lin have made on their recent visit there. We also learned the Oregon is pronounced Ore-gin. Now we know.
With the change in time zones, we arrived early enough in Coeur d'Alene to make a laundry run. It should have been short and sweet, but we went through at least two dryer cycles before we realized it wasn't heating. To reward ourselves for the aggravation we endured, we rewarded ourselves with a visit to Dairy Queen.
Tomorrow we plan to repack and reorganize our luggage for the next leg of our trip. Then we plan to make stops in Spokane and at Grand Coulee Dam prior to our visit to the Northern Cascades NP on Saturday.
TODAY'S ROUTE: From Browning, MT, US 2W to Glacier NP, US 2W to US 95S in Coeur d'Alene, ID.
Pacific Time Zone
The road from East Glacier to West Glacier is in a deep, narrow valley with more evergreens towering overhead. Rain followed us into the park. The western side Glacier is very different from the eastern side. The park is lower in altitude and very lush. McDonald Lake reigns supreme. It is very large and has a lodge, falls, creek, rapids, and drive named after it. The setting is very like the Adirondack Mountains with fir and cedar trees being dominate. In fact, further up the road we hiked the Trail of Cedars which has some of the largest trees we've seen to this point, and some of which are 500 years old. The trail led to Avalanche Falls. Its course was very fast as it twisted and fell over the huge rocks that lay in its way. Across the road the McDonald Rapids also were running full because of the recent rains.
Leaving the park we headed west again on what has become our favorite route, US 2. We've enjoyed all of the amazing scenery that we would have missed driving the interstates. As we continued through Montana and into Idaho, we passed numerous alpine-like lakes, laying at the foot of mountains and, of course, surrounded by trees. Today fog filled the valleys between the mountains, wrapping them in what looked like cotton candy. Both states are remarkably beautiful, but the long, cold winters would test the hardiest of souls. And there must be many of them because, unlike lodging in many areas of the country, rates are higher here in winter than in summer.
LAST MINUTE OBSERVATIONS: Services are already being curtailed in Glacier NP. Visitor Center hours have been shortened, the shuttle service has ended, and tour boats are being removed from the lakes.
Montana has no sales tax! I can't remember the last time I paid exactly what the list price was.
North Dakota receives $2 in Federal aid for every tax dollar collected. What's with that?
In Montana and Idaho we've seen pull-out areas for chaining up and chain removal, and even one for cell phone service. Some of the people who have a cell phone permanently attached to their head would probably have withdrawal out here with now-you-have-it-now-you-don't cell service.
In Glacier NP this morning we had a lengthy conversation with a couple from Oregon. They confirmed the observations our friends Bill and Lin have made on their recent visit there. We also learned the Oregon is pronounced Ore-gin. Now we know.
With the change in time zones, we arrived early enough in Coeur d'Alene to make a laundry run. It should have been short and sweet, but we went through at least two dryer cycles before we realized it wasn't heating. To reward ourselves for the aggravation we endured, we rewarded ourselves with a visit to Dairy Queen.
Tomorrow we plan to repack and reorganize our luggage for the next leg of our trip. Then we plan to make stops in Spokane and at Grand Coulee Dam prior to our visit to the Northern Cascades NP on Saturday.
TODAY'S ROUTE: From Browning, MT, US 2W to Glacier NP, US 2W to US 95S in Coeur d'Alene, ID.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Day 11: Glacier National Park
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 Cloudy and 43 in the morning; partly sunny and 55 in the afternoon
On the spur of the moment we decided to make the Two Medicine area of Glacier our first stop, and it was the highlight of our day. Just inside the entrance was a short trail through dense woods to a large, noisy waterfall called Running Eagle Falls. What made it unique was that it tumbled directly out of an enormous rock and spilled down into a small creek bed. Its source was never visible. Magic!
Next we drove to Two Medicine Lake. We could have stayed there all day. The surface of the lake was smooth, and the water was clear and calm, like the proverbial glass. The mountains and the trees lining its shores reflected perfectly into the water, and for awhile we were the only ones there. The silence was wonderful, so serene. "Medicine" for the soul.
From there we traveled on to St. Mary Visitor Center and arrived just in time to see adult osprey feeding their very large, very noisy, very demanding fledglings. The male had snagged a fish in his talons and delivered it to his brood. That quieted them for as long as it took for them to devour it. From their size, they should be feeding themselves soon.
As we drove up the Going-to-the-Sun Road, the main road transiting the park, we noticed that green, red, beige, and orange color the mountains in this park. Some mountains are rounded, some pointed, and some saw-toothed. Confectioner's sugar is sprinkled on some, and on others eroded areas make them look like bundt cakes with icing dribbling downs its sides.
Not surprisingly Glacier National Park has glaciers! They are strewn everywhere you look. Most are small, but a few like Jackson Glacier are larger, covering great portions of the mountainside. Many are darker than expected because soil has been blown on them. There also are many waterfalls. Bird Woman Falls drops high from the side of a mountain, under the road and on into the valley below. Sundrift Gorge's falls is smaller, and it tumbles over rocks through a narrow, wooded, water-carved gorge. Very picturesque. Water even falls right from the rocks. On our drive we passed Weeping Wall which does in fact weep. In the spring it must rain down on the vehicles passing by.
Lastly, we returned to Logan Pass and hiked to Hidden Lake. It was only a 3 mile round trip, but it was challenging because of all of the wooden steps on the first half of the hike. Once the trail went to dirt, it was easier to negotiate. The trail wound up and around the side of a mountain and finally ended at an overlook. The lake was beautiful in its own right, but the views of the mountains soaring over it and the lush valleys below it were spectacular.
When we drove into the park in the morning, the clouds were so thick and low that we were sure it would rain soon. Also, fog obscured our views of the mountains. So when the sun appeared in the afternoon, we really appreciated how it revealed everything, the mountains, the glaciers, and water, in all of their beauty.
Rain is predicted for tomorrow. We plan to drive to go into the park from the west side and visit the areas we missed today. Then it'll be on to Spokane, WA. We have friends who have been on the road for six weeks, and we will now be following the trail they have blazed for us.
They are seeing everything everywhere they go. We can only hope to match their stamina.
TODAY'S ROUTE: MT 49 to MT 89 to St. Mary. Then the park road from St. Mary about 2/3 of the way through the park. Finally, MT 89 to Browning.
On the spur of the moment we decided to make the Two Medicine area of Glacier our first stop, and it was the highlight of our day. Just inside the entrance was a short trail through dense woods to a large, noisy waterfall called Running Eagle Falls. What made it unique was that it tumbled directly out of an enormous rock and spilled down into a small creek bed. Its source was never visible. Magic!
Next we drove to Two Medicine Lake. We could have stayed there all day. The surface of the lake was smooth, and the water was clear and calm, like the proverbial glass. The mountains and the trees lining its shores reflected perfectly into the water, and for awhile we were the only ones there. The silence was wonderful, so serene. "Medicine" for the soul.
From there we traveled on to St. Mary Visitor Center and arrived just in time to see adult osprey feeding their very large, very noisy, very demanding fledglings. The male had snagged a fish in his talons and delivered it to his brood. That quieted them for as long as it took for them to devour it. From their size, they should be feeding themselves soon.
As we drove up the Going-to-the-Sun Road, the main road transiting the park, we noticed that green, red, beige, and orange color the mountains in this park. Some mountains are rounded, some pointed, and some saw-toothed. Confectioner's sugar is sprinkled on some, and on others eroded areas make them look like bundt cakes with icing dribbling downs its sides.
Not surprisingly Glacier National Park has glaciers! They are strewn everywhere you look. Most are small, but a few like Jackson Glacier are larger, covering great portions of the mountainside. Many are darker than expected because soil has been blown on them. There also are many waterfalls. Bird Woman Falls drops high from the side of a mountain, under the road and on into the valley below. Sundrift Gorge's falls is smaller, and it tumbles over rocks through a narrow, wooded, water-carved gorge. Very picturesque. Water even falls right from the rocks. On our drive we passed Weeping Wall which does in fact weep. In the spring it must rain down on the vehicles passing by.
Lastly, we returned to Logan Pass and hiked to Hidden Lake. It was only a 3 mile round trip, but it was challenging because of all of the wooden steps on the first half of the hike. Once the trail went to dirt, it was easier to negotiate. The trail wound up and around the side of a mountain and finally ended at an overlook. The lake was beautiful in its own right, but the views of the mountains soaring over it and the lush valleys below it were spectacular.
When we drove into the park in the morning, the clouds were so thick and low that we were sure it would rain soon. Also, fog obscured our views of the mountains. So when the sun appeared in the afternoon, we really appreciated how it revealed everything, the mountains, the glaciers, and water, in all of their beauty.
Rain is predicted for tomorrow. We plan to drive to go into the park from the west side and visit the areas we missed today. Then it'll be on to Spokane, WA. We have friends who have been on the road for six weeks, and we will now be following the trail they have blazed for us.
They are seeing everything everywhere they go. We can only hope to match their stamina.
TODAY'S ROUTE: MT 49 to MT 89 to St. Mary. Then the park road from St. Mary about 2/3 of the way through the park. Finally, MT 89 to Browning.
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