Tuesday, September 7, 2010 Beautiful sunshine, no wind (!!!!), 66 degrees
Our day got off to an intense start. Just as we were preparing to leave the motel, Phil broke part of the bridge on his glasses. They are Silhouettes which have both the bows and the bridge attached directly to the lenses. He's had problems in the past getting them repaired because only independent optical offices sell them. After a search on the internet, we set out for Glasgow. No luck. Fortunately in Havre we quickly found an optician who did not have spare parts, but disassembled a pair so Phil's could be repaired Whew! It would not have been good if all of the driving were left to me. Lesson learned: Phil needs to have a spare pair of glasses.
I love US 2. Although much of it is two lane, the traffic is extremely light and the speed limit is 70 mph, so making good time is no problem. Today we noticed that the wheat had not harvested and hay bales were left in the fields. While Phil was at the optician, he chatted with a local man and one from Saskatchewan. They said that they've had an unusually wet, cool, late spring and growing season, just the opposite of what we had in NY. The hay is the first cutting, and they are still waiting for the wheat to ripen. And this is a region that gets winter early.
The railroad is never far from US 2, and the many trains we saw were very long and traveling both east and west. We passed a grain elevators that were loading box cars. I think I saw more trains today than I have in the last five years.
I never cease to be amazed at the wide open spaces: miles between towns and miles between houses, vistas that extend to the horizon. When I think of the overcrowding in some areas, I think people really need to discover this beautiful part of the country. That's not reasonable, I know, because only the hardiest of individuals can deal with climate here.
I've decided that after seven full years, we are finally retired. In the past we were always "hurry up and move on," but this trip we are being much more laid back. Most of the time we travel after the morning rush hour (which really isn't a problem here anyway) and stopping before the afternoon rush. Much better way to go.
The forecast for tomorrow is sun until late afternoon and then rain through Wednesday and possibly into Thursday. We are very disappointed since this is the one park that was at the top of our "must see" list. We'll try to accomplish as much as we can and then hope for the best the two days after that.
I am writing this Tuesday evening, but I'm fairly certain it won't be posted until later. Internet service here is very spotty and cell phone service is nonexistent, and that may be true for two more days.
TODAY'S ROUTE: US 2W from Wolf Point to East Glacier Park, MT---a nice straight shot
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Monday, September 6, 2010
Day 9: Theodore Roosevelt NP, Fort Union Trading Post
Monday, September 6, 2010 Light to moderate rain with strong winds,
48 degrees, morning; clearing, windy, 58 afternoon MOUNTAIN TIME ZONE
As we drove north on US 85, we finally saw the oil wells we've been hearing about. The oil wells, dotting fields here and there, are unobtrusive. It's what it takes to put them there that's ugly. Piles of pipe and other unidentifiable staging equipment lays in piles near the roads. Enormous drill rigs and tank farms occupy large tracts of land while huge double tractor-trailers whiz by one after the other. RV's and FEMA-like trailers are everywhere, temporary housing for the workers. Fortunately for North Dakota, all of this activity is benefiting their economy. There is no unemployment here. In fact, employers are searching for people to fill jobs all because of the drilling and the ancillary services it takes to sustain its operation.
Whether the roads here were in bad condition before all of this work began or not, in places they are a disaster. Two sections of US 85 are unpaved. Because of the heavy rains, these sections were muddy, greasy and nearly impassable. Our vehicle slipped and slid through the mire, becoming covered with a thick coat of red gunk. Thankfully, our all-wheel drive got us through. (I have no idea how long we would have had to wait for AAA if we'd been stuck out in that remote area.)
THEODORE ROOSEVELT NP, NORTH UNIT: At this Visitors Center, we learned from a short film that this is a land of extremes. It is semi-arid, receiving only 14" of rain and 30" of snow per year. The temperatures fluctuate between -40 and 100 degrees, and the predominately west wind is relentless.
Entering the park, meadows are filled with silver sage, and stands of cottonwoods line the banks of the Little Missouri River. Further on
the awe-inspiring Badlands come into view. They are more rugged here than in the South Unit due to more rapid erosion over the years. Canyons, buttes, coulees, and draws work together to shed water into the Little Missouri River. But not only is the terrain more rugged, it is more colorful, and the rock formations more varied: some round, some pebbly, some collapsed at the bottom of a steep butte.
Our ability to get out and enjoy the park was limited because of the steady rain and strong winds. We stopped to read the informational boards and take pictures from the car. At three points we ventured down short trails to snap shots of the river, an oxbow, and an unusual rock formation---name forgotten for the moment. We were fortunate to see two herds of bison, tucking themselves close to a hill in an attempt to escape the rain.
FORT UNION TRADING POST: To avoid creating extra laundry, we took the car through a car wash on the way to the Fort Union Trading Post. Originally the fort was built on the Little Missouri River, but the river, continually meandering, has left it about a half mile away now. Fort Union was the place where the fur traders and the Indians came to do their trading. A certain protocol had to be followed: first a meal, then a time of pipe-smoking, casual conversation to catch up on happenings since their last meeting, and then the presentation of gifts to the chiefs who did the trading for their entire tribes. Negotiations could then begin, and they often continued over a period of several days. Furs of all kinds (beaver, buffalo, ermine, otter, deer, and even mice) were traded for knives, fabric, cooking utensils, dishes, and tools among many other items. Once furs were no longer fashionable, however, the fort fell into disrepair and was eventually torn down. The accurate reconstruction we visited was possible because of detailed paintings and drawings made at the time the fort was in use.
We left the fort and traveled another unpaved road, dry this time. Very few homes are along this 16 mile route. There are no towns nearby, so people must have to travel many miles to shop.
Once we reached US2W, we were traveling through the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. As we've seen in the past, the towns and the homes on the reservation are ill-kept and in need of repair. Moreover, many of the homes are identical in style, shape, and color while the ubiquitous casino is just down the road. Speaking of US2, we were disturbed to see the number of crosses lining the road, marking where people had been killed. Not only were the crosses numerous, but many were in groups of two. Since the road is so straight, we were left to wonder what caused all of the accidents.
Tonight we are in Wolf Point, MT. On our trip here we noticed that train tracks follow the road---or more likely the other way around---and both follow the Missouri River. Numerous trains, both freight and Amtrak, whizz by on a regular basis.
Tonight Phil has been on the internet and on the phone searching for motel rooms for the next two nights. After lots of calling back and forth, we hopefully have one night each in sister motels, the first in East Glacier and the second in Browning. (We would have loved to stay put two nights in a row.) We had hoped that after Labor Day finding a room would no longer be such a challenge. Tomorrow we expect to have a full day of traveling, arriving in Glacier NP just in time for the next round of rain.
TODAY'S ROUTE: US85N to US2W to ND1804 to MT327 to US2W
48 degrees, morning; clearing, windy, 58 afternoon MOUNTAIN TIME ZONE
As we drove north on US 85, we finally saw the oil wells we've been hearing about. The oil wells, dotting fields here and there, are unobtrusive. It's what it takes to put them there that's ugly. Piles of pipe and other unidentifiable staging equipment lays in piles near the roads. Enormous drill rigs and tank farms occupy large tracts of land while huge double tractor-trailers whiz by one after the other. RV's and FEMA-like trailers are everywhere, temporary housing for the workers. Fortunately for North Dakota, all of this activity is benefiting their economy. There is no unemployment here. In fact, employers are searching for people to fill jobs all because of the drilling and the ancillary services it takes to sustain its operation.
Whether the roads here were in bad condition before all of this work began or not, in places they are a disaster. Two sections of US 85 are unpaved. Because of the heavy rains, these sections were muddy, greasy and nearly impassable. Our vehicle slipped and slid through the mire, becoming covered with a thick coat of red gunk. Thankfully, our all-wheel drive got us through. (I have no idea how long we would have had to wait for AAA if we'd been stuck out in that remote area.)
THEODORE ROOSEVELT NP, NORTH UNIT: At this Visitors Center, we learned from a short film that this is a land of extremes. It is semi-arid, receiving only 14" of rain and 30" of snow per year. The temperatures fluctuate between -40 and 100 degrees, and the predominately west wind is relentless.
Entering the park, meadows are filled with silver sage, and stands of cottonwoods line the banks of the Little Missouri River. Further on
the awe-inspiring Badlands come into view. They are more rugged here than in the South Unit due to more rapid erosion over the years. Canyons, buttes, coulees, and draws work together to shed water into the Little Missouri River. But not only is the terrain more rugged, it is more colorful, and the rock formations more varied: some round, some pebbly, some collapsed at the bottom of a steep butte.
Our ability to get out and enjoy the park was limited because of the steady rain and strong winds. We stopped to read the informational boards and take pictures from the car. At three points we ventured down short trails to snap shots of the river, an oxbow, and an unusual rock formation---name forgotten for the moment. We were fortunate to see two herds of bison, tucking themselves close to a hill in an attempt to escape the rain.
FORT UNION TRADING POST: To avoid creating extra laundry, we took the car through a car wash on the way to the Fort Union Trading Post. Originally the fort was built on the Little Missouri River, but the river, continually meandering, has left it about a half mile away now. Fort Union was the place where the fur traders and the Indians came to do their trading. A certain protocol had to be followed: first a meal, then a time of pipe-smoking, casual conversation to catch up on happenings since their last meeting, and then the presentation of gifts to the chiefs who did the trading for their entire tribes. Negotiations could then begin, and they often continued over a period of several days. Furs of all kinds (beaver, buffalo, ermine, otter, deer, and even mice) were traded for knives, fabric, cooking utensils, dishes, and tools among many other items. Once furs were no longer fashionable, however, the fort fell into disrepair and was eventually torn down. The accurate reconstruction we visited was possible because of detailed paintings and drawings made at the time the fort was in use.
We left the fort and traveled another unpaved road, dry this time. Very few homes are along this 16 mile route. There are no towns nearby, so people must have to travel many miles to shop.
Once we reached US2W, we were traveling through the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. As we've seen in the past, the towns and the homes on the reservation are ill-kept and in need of repair. Moreover, many of the homes are identical in style, shape, and color while the ubiquitous casino is just down the road. Speaking of US2, we were disturbed to see the number of crosses lining the road, marking where people had been killed. Not only were the crosses numerous, but many were in groups of two. Since the road is so straight, we were left to wonder what caused all of the accidents.
Tonight we are in Wolf Point, MT. On our trip here we noticed that train tracks follow the road---or more likely the other way around---and both follow the Missouri River. Numerous trains, both freight and Amtrak, whizz by on a regular basis.
Tonight Phil has been on the internet and on the phone searching for motel rooms for the next two nights. After lots of calling back and forth, we hopefully have one night each in sister motels, the first in East Glacier and the second in Browning. (We would have loved to stay put two nights in a row.) We had hoped that after Labor Day finding a room would no longer be such a challenge. Tomorrow we expect to have a full day of traveling, arriving in Glacier NP just in time for the next round of rain.
TODAY'S ROUTE: US85N to US2W to ND1804 to MT327 to US2W
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Day 8: Theodore Roosevelt National Park, South Unit
Sunday, September 5, 2010 Rain, sun, rain, sun, rain, sun, 70 degrees
We were driving the rolling hills of western North Dakota this morning when the Badlands suddenly appeared on the horizon. They are a natural wonder in their own right, but they seem less rugged and the colors more muted than those in South Dakota.
The views from Painted Canyon Visitors Center was spectacular. Colorful in hues of reds, browns, and yellow buttes are separated from each other by valleys. Off in the distance we saw our first bison. A ranger told us that he had separated himself from the herd because he was old and would no longer mate. Yet his great size was evident even through the binoculars.
At the main visitors center in Medora, we watched a short film about Theodore Roosevelt's life in the Badlands. He came west to hunt. Over the years he realized that the land and its wildlife were being destroyed. Conservation became on his major concerns, and when he became president he set aside 18 national monuments, 5 national parks, 51 wildlife refuges, and millions of acres as national forests. It is because of his zeal that we have so many parks to enjoy now.
At his restored Maltese Cross cabin, a ranger gave a detailed talk about T.R.'s life: his illnesses, the deaths of family members, the loss of his ranch, political ups and downs, all of which he overcame. He was an extremely intelligent, charismatic man who has greatly and positively impacted our country. I am psyched to read his biography.
A scenic 36 mile loop drive with interpretive signs explains the park's historical and natural features. We stopped at every overlook. My favorite was at the trail head for the Ridgeline Trail. Veins of coal had burned, creating colorful bands in the rocks: blues, blacks, and tans. Along the trail were signposts that gave information about various plants growing in the park. We took our second hike on the Wind Canyon Trail. By then it had rained, and it was a slippery climb. But at the top we overlooked the Little Missouri River and some of the wildest parts of the park, a magnificent view. With the off and on rains we were glad we were able to see and do as much as we did, but we know the colors were not what they would have been, and we missed parts of the park we would have liked to hike.
After we left the park, we strolled the streets of Medora. Its buildings are constructed to look like the Old West, but the stores are filled with the typical fares found in touristy areas.
The forecast for tomorrow is for heavy winds and rain. If it holds, that will greatly impact our visit to the North Unit.
TODAY'S MISCELLANEA: At the Painted Canyon Visitors Center we met a couple from Durban, South Africa. Living in SA they have been robbed, held at gunpoint, had a car riddled with bullets, and had friends murdered. They came here because they feared for their lives. In the three years they've been here, they had started and operated a business. They want to stay, but their visas have expired, and they are being denied green cards. As the wife said, "It's easier to get into the USA under the fence than over it." It's a sad commentary that people who can and do contribute to our country can't become citizens, yet those who come illegally are given welfare, housing, health care, etc., endlessly draining our country. (Interestingly during the conversation we learned that they have been to Penn Yan. Small world.)
We were driving the rolling hills of western North Dakota this morning when the Badlands suddenly appeared on the horizon. They are a natural wonder in their own right, but they seem less rugged and the colors more muted than those in South Dakota.
The views from Painted Canyon Visitors Center was spectacular. Colorful in hues of reds, browns, and yellow buttes are separated from each other by valleys. Off in the distance we saw our first bison. A ranger told us that he had separated himself from the herd because he was old and would no longer mate. Yet his great size was evident even through the binoculars.
At the main visitors center in Medora, we watched a short film about Theodore Roosevelt's life in the Badlands. He came west to hunt. Over the years he realized that the land and its wildlife were being destroyed. Conservation became on his major concerns, and when he became president he set aside 18 national monuments, 5 national parks, 51 wildlife refuges, and millions of acres as national forests. It is because of his zeal that we have so many parks to enjoy now.
At his restored Maltese Cross cabin, a ranger gave a detailed talk about T.R.'s life: his illnesses, the deaths of family members, the loss of his ranch, political ups and downs, all of which he overcame. He was an extremely intelligent, charismatic man who has greatly and positively impacted our country. I am psyched to read his biography.
A scenic 36 mile loop drive with interpretive signs explains the park's historical and natural features. We stopped at every overlook. My favorite was at the trail head for the Ridgeline Trail. Veins of coal had burned, creating colorful bands in the rocks: blues, blacks, and tans. Along the trail were signposts that gave information about various plants growing in the park. We took our second hike on the Wind Canyon Trail. By then it had rained, and it was a slippery climb. But at the top we overlooked the Little Missouri River and some of the wildest parts of the park, a magnificent view. With the off and on rains we were glad we were able to see and do as much as we did, but we know the colors were not what they would have been, and we missed parts of the park we would have liked to hike.
After we left the park, we strolled the streets of Medora. Its buildings are constructed to look like the Old West, but the stores are filled with the typical fares found in touristy areas.
The forecast for tomorrow is for heavy winds and rain. If it holds, that will greatly impact our visit to the North Unit.
TODAY'S MISCELLANEA: At the Painted Canyon Visitors Center we met a couple from Durban, South Africa. Living in SA they have been robbed, held at gunpoint, had a car riddled with bullets, and had friends murdered. They came here because they feared for their lives. In the three years they've been here, they had started and operated a business. They want to stay, but their visas have expired, and they are being denied green cards. As the wife said, "It's easier to get into the USA under the fence than over it." It's a sad commentary that people who can and do contribute to our country can't become citizens, yet those who come illegally are given welfare, housing, health care, etc., endlessly draining our country. (Interestingly during the conversation we learned that they have been to Penn Yan. Small world.)
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Day 7 Jamestown to Bismarck, ND
Saturday, September 4,2010 Sunny, breezy, 74 degrees
Continuing westward from Jamestown, we passed acres of rolled hay and straw bales, sunflowers bowing their heads low, and combines dwarfing the tractor-trailers they were loading. As we neared Bismarck, the land which had been flat, began to roll, and almost magically the city blossomed over the prairie. Once we headed north on US 83, before us, as far as the eye could see, were towering wind generators stretching from west to east. My opinion: they are ugly scars on the landscape.
LOUIS AND CLARK INTERPRETIVE CENTER, our first stop, is a condensed version of the exhibits at the Gateway Arch in St. Louis. Yet the pictures, maps, displays, and artifacts more than adequately depicted long, arduous, odyssey to the West Coast.
President Thomas Jefferson charged Captain Lewis with a monumental task when he sent him out to explore the new Louisiana Purchase. Lewis was to 1.) find the Northwest Passage, 2.) draw maps of the new territory, 3.) establish latitude and longitude for major landmarks, 4.) identify indigenous flora and fauna, 5.) make peaceful contact with the various Indian tribes, and additionally, 6.) record the names of the tribes---as many as 52---describe their physical appearance, clothing, customs, and their social and political structures. All of the above was to be detailed in logs and presented to the president upon his return. Amazingly, Lewis successfully fulfilled his mission.
A mile further down the road is reconstructed FORT MANDAN which Lewis and his Corps of Discovery built and stayed in during the winter of 1804-05. It was here that Captain Clark formed 44 undisciplined, rowdy men into a cohesive team. Also, Sakakawea gave birth to her son here just six weeks before the westward expedition began in March. Through long, cold winters, fording rivers, riding rapids, crossing mountains, and defending against Indian attacks, only one man died, and he apparently from a ruptured appendix. Yet, even today the data gathered by Lewis is considered remarkably accurate and definitive.
KNIFE RIVER INDIAN VILLAGE is across the Missouri River from Fort Mandan. This was the birthplace of Sakakawea, and home of the tribe that supplied the food and buffalo robes that made it possible for the Corps of Discovery to survive their first winter at the fort. Today all that remains are mounds of dirt where the Indians lived with their clan members in earthen lodges. The men hunted and fished, and the women grew corn, beans, squash, (CBS), and sunflowers as well as making clothing from buffalo hides, cooking, etc. The village was decimated in 1837 by small pox, introduced by white traders.
TODAY'S MISCELLANEA:
This morning a native North Dakotan explained that North and South Dakota should really have been East and West Dakota. His reasoning is that both states are flat in the east and the western portions are more rugged, especially the Badlands. Sounds reasonable to me.
Three new motels are under construction in Watford City to accommodate the influx of oil workers, many of whom are currently sleeping in their cars. When the motels are completed, they are fully booked for three years.
TODAY'S ROUTE: I94W from Jamestown to Bismarck; US83N to Washburn; west on ND200A to Stanton; then retrace to Bismarck
WEEK ONE: 2,197 miles traveled
We DID get motel rooms for tonight and the next two nights as well. Whew! No sleeping in the car! Hopefully, from now on getting rooms won't be such a challenge.
Continuing westward from Jamestown, we passed acres of rolled hay and straw bales, sunflowers bowing their heads low, and combines dwarfing the tractor-trailers they were loading. As we neared Bismarck, the land which had been flat, began to roll, and almost magically the city blossomed over the prairie. Once we headed north on US 83, before us, as far as the eye could see, were towering wind generators stretching from west to east. My opinion: they are ugly scars on the landscape.
LOUIS AND CLARK INTERPRETIVE CENTER, our first stop, is a condensed version of the exhibits at the Gateway Arch in St. Louis. Yet the pictures, maps, displays, and artifacts more than adequately depicted long, arduous, odyssey to the West Coast.
President Thomas Jefferson charged Captain Lewis with a monumental task when he sent him out to explore the new Louisiana Purchase. Lewis was to 1.) find the Northwest Passage, 2.) draw maps of the new territory, 3.) establish latitude and longitude for major landmarks, 4.) identify indigenous flora and fauna, 5.) make peaceful contact with the various Indian tribes, and additionally, 6.) record the names of the tribes---as many as 52---describe their physical appearance, clothing, customs, and their social and political structures. All of the above was to be detailed in logs and presented to the president upon his return. Amazingly, Lewis successfully fulfilled his mission.
A mile further down the road is reconstructed FORT MANDAN which Lewis and his Corps of Discovery built and stayed in during the winter of 1804-05. It was here that Captain Clark formed 44 undisciplined, rowdy men into a cohesive team. Also, Sakakawea gave birth to her son here just six weeks before the westward expedition began in March. Through long, cold winters, fording rivers, riding rapids, crossing mountains, and defending against Indian attacks, only one man died, and he apparently from a ruptured appendix. Yet, even today the data gathered by Lewis is considered remarkably accurate and definitive.
KNIFE RIVER INDIAN VILLAGE is across the Missouri River from Fort Mandan. This was the birthplace of Sakakawea, and home of the tribe that supplied the food and buffalo robes that made it possible for the Corps of Discovery to survive their first winter at the fort. Today all that remains are mounds of dirt where the Indians lived with their clan members in earthen lodges. The men hunted and fished, and the women grew corn, beans, squash, (CBS), and sunflowers as well as making clothing from buffalo hides, cooking, etc. The village was decimated in 1837 by small pox, introduced by white traders.
TODAY'S MISCELLANEA:
This morning a native North Dakotan explained that North and South Dakota should really have been East and West Dakota. His reasoning is that both states are flat in the east and the western portions are more rugged, especially the Badlands. Sounds reasonable to me.
Three new motels are under construction in Watford City to accommodate the influx of oil workers, many of whom are currently sleeping in their cars. When the motels are completed, they are fully booked for three years.
TODAY'S ROUTE: I94W from Jamestown to Bismarck; US83N to Washburn; west on ND200A to Stanton; then retrace to Bismarck
WEEK ONE: 2,197 miles traveled
We DID get motel rooms for tonight and the next two nights as well. Whew! No sleeping in the car! Hopefully, from now on getting rooms won't be such a challenge.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Day 6: Superior, WI to Jamestown, ND
Friday, September 3, 2010 Rain with very strong winds in the morning and 50 degrees; sunny and 65 degrees in the afternoon
For the past four days much of our travels through MI,WI, and MN has been on state or county roads. We've been amazed that we encountered so little traffic on these roads. Sometimes we drove several miles without meeting another vehicle or seeing one in our rear view mirror. We've made good time without the stress of crazy interstate automobile roulette. So refreshing.
This morning we crossed the Mississippi River just as we left US 2 for MN 200. Having seen it when we were in St. Louis, it was a surprise to see it so narrow---less than 50 yards---and so shallow. Sure isn't Old Man River there.
The Minnesota we saw today is mostly flat. Trees, usually evergreens, grow along the roads. The land seems to be very marshy, and we did see lakes of all sizes, some larger than Canandaigua Lake and some the size of a large farm pond (or Lake Mitchell). Wide expanses of fields planted to corn, short-stemmed sunflowers, and soy beans appeared as we approached North Dakota. Nearby the inevitable grain elevators rise up, towering over the prairie. This is reminscent of Kansas.
This afternoon we visited the Frontier Village in Jamestown, ND. Twenty-four buildings, moved in from small prairie towns around ND, house historical displays. Town life is represented by a post office, dentist, print shop, jail, saloon, bank, fire department, school, church, law and insurance offices, and many more, each furnished with artifacts and antiques appropriate to its use. Louis L'Armour grew up in Jamestown, and one building honors his legacy and displays many of the books he authored.
On the same grounds is a celebration of the bison's importance to the prairie, the World's Largest Buffalo Monument which is 26' high, 14' wide, 46' long and weighs 60 tons. He's one intimidating dude. Just beyond the monument is a herd of 30 bison. Included in the herd is White Cloud, the only female albino bison in North America, and five of her calves one of which is also white.
Tonight we met our Waterloo, as we expected. Phil spent almost two hours locating rooms for us for the next two nights. Labor Day combined with the oil workers, who have moved into the area to work in the newly discovered oil fields, have made lodging scarce. Since Plans A and B have been sabotaged, tomorrow will be working from Plan C which may also affect our plans for Sunday and Monday as well. Trips like this necessitate flexibility.
For our grandchildren who are using our travels to study geography, these are the routes we took today: from Duluth, MN, I35S-US2N-MN 200W-MN34W-US10W-I94W as far as Exit 258.
For the past four days much of our travels through MI,WI, and MN has been on state or county roads. We've been amazed that we encountered so little traffic on these roads. Sometimes we drove several miles without meeting another vehicle or seeing one in our rear view mirror. We've made good time without the stress of crazy interstate automobile roulette. So refreshing.
This morning we crossed the Mississippi River just as we left US 2 for MN 200. Having seen it when we were in St. Louis, it was a surprise to see it so narrow---less than 50 yards---and so shallow. Sure isn't Old Man River there.
The Minnesota we saw today is mostly flat. Trees, usually evergreens, grow along the roads. The land seems to be very marshy, and we did see lakes of all sizes, some larger than Canandaigua Lake and some the size of a large farm pond (or Lake Mitchell). Wide expanses of fields planted to corn, short-stemmed sunflowers, and soy beans appeared as we approached North Dakota. Nearby the inevitable grain elevators rise up, towering over the prairie. This is reminscent of Kansas.
This afternoon we visited the Frontier Village in Jamestown, ND. Twenty-four buildings, moved in from small prairie towns around ND, house historical displays. Town life is represented by a post office, dentist, print shop, jail, saloon, bank, fire department, school, church, law and insurance offices, and many more, each furnished with artifacts and antiques appropriate to its use. Louis L'Armour grew up in Jamestown, and one building honors his legacy and displays many of the books he authored.
On the same grounds is a celebration of the bison's importance to the prairie, the World's Largest Buffalo Monument which is 26' high, 14' wide, 46' long and weighs 60 tons. He's one intimidating dude. Just beyond the monument is a herd of 30 bison. Included in the herd is White Cloud, the only female albino bison in North America, and five of her calves one of which is also white.
Tonight we met our Waterloo, as we expected. Phil spent almost two hours locating rooms for us for the next two nights. Labor Day combined with the oil workers, who have moved into the area to work in the newly discovered oil fields, have made lodging scarce. Since Plans A and B have been sabotaged, tomorrow will be working from Plan C which may also affect our plans for Sunday and Monday as well. Trips like this necessitate flexibility.
For our grandchildren who are using our travels to study geography, these are the routes we took today: from Duluth, MN, I35S-US2N-MN 200W-MN34W-US10W-I94W as far as Exit 258.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Day 5: Quincy Mine; Apostle Islands---almost
Thursday, September 2,2010 Morning rain and afternoon clouds and showers. 72, eventually Central Time
In 1843, six years before the California Gold Rush, one of the nation's first mineral rushes occurred on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Miners came for copper instead of gold. The Industrial Revolution and, soon the Civil War, increased the demand for copper. The Quincy Mine was opened in 1848 and became the second largest mine in the Lake Superior region. Immigrants from across the world came for the jobs that copper mining provided.
We were at the mine in time for the first tour of the day. We began with a cursory self-guided tour of the mine shaft where 30 man-lift carts, ore carts, and water/bilge carts were on display. The tour continued in the Hoist House. A double steam hoist, the largest in the world, powered cables lowered and lifted the workers into and out of the mine shafts and brought ore to the surface from depths of as much as 9,260 feet. The winding/unwinding drum was enormous. It held enough cable to lower and raise carts in the shaft at the same time to all 92 levels. One engineer, working a 12 hour shift, was responsible for operating those cables. The lives of the miners, the amount of ore removed, basically the whole operation depended on him. He could not leave his post at any time.
From the hoist house we took a cog-wheeled tram down the equivalent of seven levels. We took a wet, dark, 43 degree ride into that level. Inside we learned that the process of drilling was laborious. Hammer and chisels were used to make holes into the walls where the explosives were loaded. Once the ore was loosened, it was then hand-loaded into the ore carts and raised to ground level to be loaded onto rail cars. Off site the ore was stamped, concentrated, sorted, smelted, and formed into ingots before they were shipped (once the ice cleared from the lake).
Miners suffered deafness, blindness, and lung diseases from working in the mine. Two hundred fifty-two men died in the 99 years the mine was in operation. Tragic as this was, it was a remarkable safety record considering the working conditions. The mine prospered until a labor strike and the rise in strip mining caused its decline. In all we were glad that we took this two day Harley-biker-induced detour.
Shortly after noon we were on our way to Apostle Islands. Our first stop was the Visitor Center where we viewed a film of the 22 islands, an archipelago spread along the northeast coast of Wisconsin. Each island is very distinct and, obviously, only accessible by boat. Gale force winds are predicted for tomorrow so no boats will be running. Rather than wait for the weather to improve, we observed many of the islands as we drove US 13 to Superior, Wisconsin. (But even as we are avoiding winds in WI, Hurricane Earl is bearing down on North Carolina. Obviously we are concerned about our many friends there and about how our condo may fair during this storm.)
RANDOM MISCELLANEA:
Copper Harbor is the northern most point in Michigan.
US 41 originates in Copper Harbor and finds it terminus 1,990 miles away in Miami, Florida. It would be very interesting to make this trip.
Michigan has rumble strips both in the center and on the edges of their roads. In many places the painted center line is not centered on rumble strip. When this happens, it makes for a very narrow, very annoying driving experience.
Minnesota is the Land of 10,000 Lakes (which we will be driving through tomorrow), but we were surrounded by water much of the time we were in Michigan. It was a very pleasant, beautiful surprise.
We always thought that Georgia had the monopoly on red clay soil. To our amazement, both Michigan and Wisconsin are close behind. We've been driving and walking through red clay for three days.
In New York and North Carolina every bit of waterfront property is overbuilt. Only the steepest, swampiest plots are undeveloped. It has been very refreshing to drive where there are long expanses of open shoreline, especially on Lake Superior. Gorgeous.
Since we are operating off our original schedule, we don't where we will be or what we will be doing tomorrow, other than we should make it to North Dakota.
In 1843, six years before the California Gold Rush, one of the nation's first mineral rushes occurred on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Miners came for copper instead of gold. The Industrial Revolution and, soon the Civil War, increased the demand for copper. The Quincy Mine was opened in 1848 and became the second largest mine in the Lake Superior region. Immigrants from across the world came for the jobs that copper mining provided.
We were at the mine in time for the first tour of the day. We began with a cursory self-guided tour of the mine shaft where 30 man-lift carts, ore carts, and water/bilge carts were on display. The tour continued in the Hoist House. A double steam hoist, the largest in the world, powered cables lowered and lifted the workers into and out of the mine shafts and brought ore to the surface from depths of as much as 9,260 feet. The winding/unwinding drum was enormous. It held enough cable to lower and raise carts in the shaft at the same time to all 92 levels. One engineer, working a 12 hour shift, was responsible for operating those cables. The lives of the miners, the amount of ore removed, basically the whole operation depended on him. He could not leave his post at any time.
From the hoist house we took a cog-wheeled tram down the equivalent of seven levels. We took a wet, dark, 43 degree ride into that level. Inside we learned that the process of drilling was laborious. Hammer and chisels were used to make holes into the walls where the explosives were loaded. Once the ore was loosened, it was then hand-loaded into the ore carts and raised to ground level to be loaded onto rail cars. Off site the ore was stamped, concentrated, sorted, smelted, and formed into ingots before they were shipped (once the ice cleared from the lake).
Miners suffered deafness, blindness, and lung diseases from working in the mine. Two hundred fifty-two men died in the 99 years the mine was in operation. Tragic as this was, it was a remarkable safety record considering the working conditions. The mine prospered until a labor strike and the rise in strip mining caused its decline. In all we were glad that we took this two day Harley-biker-induced detour.
Shortly after noon we were on our way to Apostle Islands. Our first stop was the Visitor Center where we viewed a film of the 22 islands, an archipelago spread along the northeast coast of Wisconsin. Each island is very distinct and, obviously, only accessible by boat. Gale force winds are predicted for tomorrow so no boats will be running. Rather than wait for the weather to improve, we observed many of the islands as we drove US 13 to Superior, Wisconsin. (But even as we are avoiding winds in WI, Hurricane Earl is bearing down on North Carolina. Obviously we are concerned about our many friends there and about how our condo may fair during this storm.)
RANDOM MISCELLANEA:
Copper Harbor is the northern most point in Michigan.
US 41 originates in Copper Harbor and finds it terminus 1,990 miles away in Miami, Florida. It would be very interesting to make this trip.
Michigan has rumble strips both in the center and on the edges of their roads. In many places the painted center line is not centered on rumble strip. When this happens, it makes for a very narrow, very annoying driving experience.
Minnesota is the Land of 10,000 Lakes (which we will be driving through tomorrow), but we were surrounded by water much of the time we were in Michigan. It was a very pleasant, beautiful surprise.
We always thought that Georgia had the monopoly on red clay soil. To our amazement, both Michigan and Wisconsin are close behind. We've been driving and walking through red clay for three days.
In New York and North Carolina every bit of waterfront property is overbuilt. Only the steepest, swampiest plots are undeveloped. It has been very refreshing to drive where there are long expanses of open shoreline, especially on Lake Superior. Gorgeous.
Since we are operating off our original schedule, we don't where we will be or what we will be doing tomorrow, other than we should make it to North Dakota.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Day 4: Copper Harbor
Wednesday, September 1, 2010 Sunny, windy---again---69
Copper Harbor, Michigan
This morning we made our way up the Keweenaw (key-wuh-gnaw)Peninsula to Copper Harbor. The trip was very Adirondack-like with trees bending low over narrow, twisting roads. The difference today was that there were stands of white birch in contrast to the dark green of the evergreens. The French and Ojibwa Indian influence remains mostly in the names of the villages, lakes, and rivers up and down the peninsula.
We originally thought we would spend half a day in Copper Harbor, but at the information center we came up with a list of six sites to visit. Our first stop was Fort Wilkins State Park. This wooden fort was built in 1844 as a constabulary with the intent of maintaining the peace between the Indians, the local residents, and the miners who were pouring into the area for the copper rush. But everyone lived harmoniously so the fort was soon closed, and most of the soldiers were reassigned to protect the southern border of the US in anticipation of the war with Mexico. Nineteen buildings survive and twelve of them are original structures. The buildings are furnished, each to reflect its use: officers' quarters, kitchen and mess, powder magazine, guardhouse, blacksmith's shop, carpenter's shop, etc. Interpretive signs and videos further illustrated the difficulty of life in such a remote area. A man in period costume portrayed a sutler (store keeper). He explained that supplies had to be shipped via the lakes from either Detroit or Wisconsin which was possible only six months of the year. Also, because of the length of time it took for the goods to arrive, many of them arrived spoiled or damaged. We were greatly enjoyed this stop and were impressed with the thorough restoration of the fort. Well worth the out-of-state fee.
Next our intent was to take a boat from the marina to the Copper Harbor Lighthouse. While we were eating our lunch there, we learned that trips for the remainder of the day had been canceled due to rough water. So plan B. We drove up Brockway Mountain for views of our surroundings. From any vantage point Lake Superior is intimidating in its size, but especially from above. Many islands are sprinkled across its surface, and numerous freighters cruise her waters. From the top of the mountain we could see the whole village of Copper Harbor, the numerous smaller lakes scattered here and there, the golf course, and the roads coming in from the east and the west. I'm sure it is a gorgeous view when the already yellowing and reddening leaves reach their peak colors.
Coming down from the mountain we headed back into town. We drove through a forest of white pines, some of which are 200-500 years old. Nearby we also viewed Manganese Falls and the ruins of the Clark Mine. Since we misunderstood where the Quincey Mine was, we will be touring it tomorrow.
So tonight we are back in Houghton. By tomorrow our schedule will be two days behind, and our visit to Apostle Island National Lakeshore is now is jeopardy because rain is forecast for the next two days. Also, the temps are predicted to be in the upper 50's to low 60's which would make for a nippy ride on Gitchie Goommie. Such is traveling when you're "flying by the seat of your pants."
Copper Harbor, Michigan
This morning we made our way up the Keweenaw (key-wuh-gnaw)Peninsula to Copper Harbor. The trip was very Adirondack-like with trees bending low over narrow, twisting roads. The difference today was that there were stands of white birch in contrast to the dark green of the evergreens. The French and Ojibwa Indian influence remains mostly in the names of the villages, lakes, and rivers up and down the peninsula.
We originally thought we would spend half a day in Copper Harbor, but at the information center we came up with a list of six sites to visit. Our first stop was Fort Wilkins State Park. This wooden fort was built in 1844 as a constabulary with the intent of maintaining the peace between the Indians, the local residents, and the miners who were pouring into the area for the copper rush. But everyone lived harmoniously so the fort was soon closed, and most of the soldiers were reassigned to protect the southern border of the US in anticipation of the war with Mexico. Nineteen buildings survive and twelve of them are original structures. The buildings are furnished, each to reflect its use: officers' quarters, kitchen and mess, powder magazine, guardhouse, blacksmith's shop, carpenter's shop, etc. Interpretive signs and videos further illustrated the difficulty of life in such a remote area. A man in period costume portrayed a sutler (store keeper). He explained that supplies had to be shipped via the lakes from either Detroit or Wisconsin which was possible only six months of the year. Also, because of the length of time it took for the goods to arrive, many of them arrived spoiled or damaged. We were greatly enjoyed this stop and were impressed with the thorough restoration of the fort. Well worth the out-of-state fee.
Next our intent was to take a boat from the marina to the Copper Harbor Lighthouse. While we were eating our lunch there, we learned that trips for the remainder of the day had been canceled due to rough water. So plan B. We drove up Brockway Mountain for views of our surroundings. From any vantage point Lake Superior is intimidating in its size, but especially from above. Many islands are sprinkled across its surface, and numerous freighters cruise her waters. From the top of the mountain we could see the whole village of Copper Harbor, the numerous smaller lakes scattered here and there, the golf course, and the roads coming in from the east and the west. I'm sure it is a gorgeous view when the already yellowing and reddening leaves reach their peak colors.
Coming down from the mountain we headed back into town. We drove through a forest of white pines, some of which are 200-500 years old. Nearby we also viewed Manganese Falls and the ruins of the Clark Mine. Since we misunderstood where the Quincey Mine was, we will be touring it tomorrow.
So tonight we are back in Houghton. By tomorrow our schedule will be two days behind, and our visit to Apostle Island National Lakeshore is now is jeopardy because rain is forecast for the next two days. Also, the temps are predicted to be in the upper 50's to low 60's which would make for a nippy ride on Gitchie Goommie. Such is traveling when you're "flying by the seat of your pants."
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